How does it perform in the forge?

 

Not at that point yet. I don't want to cut a hole into the body of the forge until I know i have a working burner. Everyone else seems to get them working in open air I don't understand why I cant.

So apparently my problem was simply lighting the burner from the rear and not the tip

It works great now.

My LAST questions and id really appreciate help because I can't find the answer. Does it matter if the reil burner tube is the full 8" or will making it slightly shorter be ok?

Would I be better off with a 1.5" to 3/4" bell then a 1" to 3/4" bell.

Yeah, lots of guys just MUST have a burner that works in open air when the only place they're going to use it is in a forge. Your pic shows a burner running rich. Were there yellow feathers at the end of the flame? If not it's getting enough oxy from the air induced once it leaves the burner tube.

 

NO, the answer isn't to light it at the air intake. (if that's what you mean by back) The answer is to build it correctly, just like Ron says on his front page.

 

The correct ratio for a naturally aspirated burner is based on the throat size. Throat in the home made burner world is typically the diameter of the tube.

 

The ratios are. Tube length = 8-9x throat dia. In the case of a 3/4" burner that's 6-6.5", not 8"

 

The air intake ports need to have 2x the area of the burner tube. There is more slack in this ratio, my burners run much better at around 4x the area of the burner tube.

 

The jet setback should be no less than 1/2 bore dia. Jet size is something I don't have the math to determine so I experimented till I got mine to work well. In my burners: 3/4" burner likes a 0.035" mig contact tip. 1" burner likes a 0.045" mig contact tip. 1/2" burner likes a 0.023" mig contact tip. However, guys in the local club have been getting very good results with a pretty wide variety of jet dia. so my ratios aren't set in copper.

 

Lastly is the flare. In commercial  induction devices we use for naturally aspirated burners the flare extends the full length of the tube so there isn't a "flare" on the end. If you can taper the entire tube at a rate of no more than 12:1 the performance will knock your socks off and it'll be super stable in any wind conditions, within reason.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

Just an update.

I did in fact succeed with my forge build. Its almost done at this point, I put the rear plate with a 2.5" x 1/2" cutout on as well as the front plate. (neither is on in these pics)

 

 

But it does make that steel yellow hot in a matter of a 2-3 minutes at max temperature.

 

I have the burner tube about 1/4" above the refractory and I achieved a really nice swirling flame. I added a larger bell to the end of the burner. Between the Reil Burner and oliver upwind burner, both performed but the reil burner was the clear winner.

 

Side note, I picked up 2000 degree spray paint. Is that necessary or should I just go with BBQ paint?

 

IMG_0738.MOV

 

 

Thanks for all the help.

Paint for what?  None of my gas forges are painted anywhere.

I'm just painting the outside black. Plenty of forges are painted as far as I can see.

I've painted mine many times but he dragon's breath pretty much destroys the paint around the door and the port out the back. Mostly the paint is to keep the shell from rusting too much when its not being used.

Done

is there gasketing around the burner tube to help prevent exhaust from being re-run through the burner increasing the CO production greatly?

No there isn't.

The hole the burner actually goes into is almost the exact size of
The tube. Less than 1/8 gap. It's being used fully outdoors anyway not really concerned with CO?

If you have some spare kaowool (or comparable) the stuff the burner holding tube to insure a seal.  Burners that are top dead center may have a problem with hot air from the forge floating up the burner holding tube.  When this happens, you end up getting hot, low-oxygen air into your burner, which means your burner starts "chuffing" and sputtering.