Bottom Fuller hardy tool

[DanielC]

Made the bottom fuller to match my other 3/8" radius top fuller, and boy she is UGLY. Made of the same 1.5" 4140 car axle. Forged the shank down, and then upset to form the shoulders in my anvil. Only problem, was I didn't rotate my striking 90 degrees every hit, so the upsetting was a little lopsided. No matter, there is plenty of shoulder on all sides, and I was able to straighten and fix the hardy for the most part. It just looks funny when holding it out of the anvil. Will deff. rotate in my striking for the 3/4" fuller I make later.

 

EDIT: Btw, by myself again. Haha.

 

Re-EDIT: I even tested it out drawing out a damascus billet I made awhile back. Worked great. Was able to draw out, cut 3/4" way through billet, and forge weld it back onto itself for a fold in no time.

[jeremy k]

The looks has no bearing on the use as long as the working surface is the contour and finish of what's needed.

[VaughnT]

Like I tell the ladies, I might not look pretty, but I can get the job done!

 

If it works, it's good stuff.

 

One thing I try to always remind folks of: old smiths used files and grinders as often as they could.  You don't have to bring the tool to a perfect finish with a hammer and flatter.  If you want a cleaner look, take that thing to the grinder, touch up the sides, and then put it back in the fire.  Once it hits the temp to form scale, the file/grinder marks will miraculously disappear as you wire brush it.  It leaves you with a very decent finish.

 

From my vantage point, she's a right darling and I wouldn't do a thing to her.  Very good bit of work there!