Questions on first forge

[nogrodoth]

      So I'm in the process of making my first coal forge. I was lucky enough to find an old broken hopper, and took a couple pieces from it which would allow me to make the design below with very close to minimal effort. The different colors are the different pieces which would be bolted/riveted together, all but the yellow one currently existing exactly as shown. The circular hole will hold a brake drum. 2x4s will be bolted to the purple funny shaped flap things coming down, as the legs.

 

       I guess I'd just like to ask what the design looks like from a safety/efficiency/usefulness point of view. The steel is 1/8", is that thick enough? The flat rectangular section of the purple part, the main forge table with the hole in it, is 37cm*55cm, or about 15"x22". Given that thickness and size, will it or anything else need more support than what is shown?

 

      I'd also like to ask about the purple rectangular flap thing labelled "A" in the diagram; what would be the best use for it? I could cut it off and use it later, I could fold it completely up so it might act as a wind shield, i could fold it up to be parallel to the ground and so elongate the forging table, either for coal or for tools or for both, or I could cut it off and re-attach it with hinges to allow it to act as a table/wind shield as needed, or Im sure there are myriad other possibilities.. But what do you guys think would be the best use of these materials? Is there a way I could make it smaller but have it still be just as useful?

 

And all the components are drawn to scale. Hopefully I made it clear enough how it should go together..

 

      Also I don't yet have the knowledge nor tools to weld, if that is relevant.

I'm quite new to forging, so I understand it probably wouldn't be of too much benefit to me to build what looks like a more professional-style forge instead of, say, bolting legs on a brake drum, but all the pieces just seem made to go together like this:P

Sorry this is so long, and thanks:)

[ThorsHammer82]

My $0.02 for what it's worth. I'm an avid hobby welder and build just about everything myself. That being said. I would lose the bottom skirting. Save the material for something more useful. I would build a frame of steel angle iron. (ditch the wood 2x4's all together.) This way you should be able to bolt the "table" together. your 1/8" top is plenty thick espeically if you're using a brake drum as the fire pot.(Note: you'll want some support for the brake drum just to minimize the weight on the 1/8" top to prevent possible warping over time) Removing the skirting also eliminates the weird angle caused by it.  Having the table frame made from angle iron will also allow you to add tool hangers to it allowing you to keep your tongs close at hand.

 

I'm assuming you're planning on adding some sort of stack to the top of your hood, if you're not, it's pretty much pointless to have it there.

 

I work outside with a brake drum forge and no stack or hood and I haven't found a need for a wind break so if you don't need the blue pannel I'd save that as well.

 

1/8" plate will get pretty heavy pretty quickly so if you need this to be moveable, the less plate you can use the better.

[VaughnT]

I love projects like this!  Half the fun of working with metal is learning how to design something that you can build with the tools and skills that you have.  If it works, that's great, too!

 

At first glance, I worry about the cantilever of the table because you have a lot of weight off of center.  This could make it tippy, but I don't know what the actual weight of the metal is.

 

I would certainly look to remove Part A from the forge.  It doesn't serve any purpose, but could certainly come in handy for a dozen other projects.  If nothing else, I would straighten it out and make the forge table longer.  This extra space is very, very convenient for fuel and tool storage.

 

I don't think any of the lower "legs" are really necessary.  Like TH mentioned, you can remove a lot of weight from the forge and use those flat sheets of metal for projects.  I would love to have them as "chalkboards" beside the forge where I could draw on them like a rusty tin plate.  It would be very handy...

 

The sides and chimney will be very convenient.  If outside, this will help to block wind and sun even if you don't put a stove pipe on it, though you do want a cut-out on the other side of the firepot so you can pass through longer pieces of metal.  The upper part looks ready-made for a flue to be attached so I wouldn't be quick to get rid of it.

 

The frame?  Well bed rails are very cheap at the re-sale stores, but you can use wood.  You're far enough away from the heat that a wood frame shouldn't be in any jeopardy of burning.  While I might weld something up, bolting something together is just as strong and gives you the dismantle option down the road.  Wood or metal... as your skills and budget allow.

[nogrodoth]

Ok. Thanks:)
I'll probably use a combination of both wood and metal, and ill take you guys' advice and take off the bottom pieces.

Would it be worth it to fold part A over to thicken the table?
And ill certainly be adding a stack to the chimney thing:p

And having a drawing board would be useful, ill try that.

Thank you:)

[ThorsHammer82]

No need. I've got 16 guage steel for my top. no point in making it heavier that it needs to be. Just support your brake drum under neith and you'll be fine.

[VaughnT]

Yea, a thicker table isn't necessary.  A single piece of 1" angle iron under the table, midways, would provide plenty of stiffness against sag.  Combined with welded/bolted/riveted sides and angle iron frame, it's a very stout piece of kit.  

 

The only thing I've ever complained about on a home-made forge was the lack of table space.  I'd rather have more room than less, and still haven't found such a thing as "too much" table.  With forty or fifty pounds of coal on the deck (one bag's worth), it's nice to be able to spread it out a bit and still have room for commonly used tools.  On the far right side, I used to have a tray area that held all my punches, chisels and such.  It acted like a fourth wall to stop coal from falling off and kept everything handy.

[Frosty]

Nogrodoth:

 

Lose the sheet stand thingy. Worse than not helping it's a trip hazard you could not only stub a toe and fall but just stepping on the outward sloping face could put you on the floor. Legs with stretchers and a lower shelf are not only safer but a lot more handy. they can be wood, steel, bolted, riveted or welded. The stretchers are horizontals connecting the legs to make them rigid so laying a shelf across them is a natural and you can put stuff on it.

 

You can make an angle iron frame that makes the table rim with nothing but a hack saw and fire. Cut V slots in the flange and bend to close and make a 90* corner. for the final corner leave an inch or two tab to fold over and bolt or rivet to the beginning section. this gives you a rectangular table frame the table top will rest on the inside.

 

If you use 4x4 lumber for legs you can two drill holes in the flange at each corner and simply lag screw the it to the legs. The stretchers and shelf will keep the legs rigid while you dismantle it for movement.

 

If you want to use angle iron legs, just mount them to the outside of the table frame, drill and bolt together, stretchers and shelf stay and keep it all solid during moves.

 

Of course the "V" notched and bent table frame is pretty advanced, this kind of cutting and bending is kind of tricky, not something I'm particularly good at unless I've been practicing. So, simply cut angle legs so they lap the frame and drill and bolt it all together, no precision cutting or notching necessary.

 

Nice drawing by the way, it's an excellent way to brainstorm things and color coding is excellent, one of my favorite tricks for keeping elements straight. Nice score one the chute, hopper, whatever it was. However you've fallen into a typical beginner's trap. Trying to use everything isn't necessary, just because you have it doesn't mean you must use it. There're a lot of really handy precut pieces of sheet steel there and you only need a couple to build your forge.

 

Using one to extend the forge table is good, larger forge tables are generally handy but forget the hinges, use them for something else. Another piece of that sheet will make a dandy little steel faced table to hold tools, stock and hot pieces of work and you won't have to worry about it. Same as the forge table though, legs, stretchers and the every handy shelf.

 

My large forge table, not that I burn coal often enough to have a coal forge, is 14 ga. sheet with a couple 1" angle stiffeners if I want to heat something that weighs a couple hundred lbs.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

[nogrodoth]

Ok.
​I've redrawn it, hopefully i can get some angle iron soon so i can see how it works out:)

Thank you all:)

[VaughnT]

Bed rails.  Best lightweight angle iron you'll ever find.  Dirt cheap at the salvation army stores.

[ThorsHammer82]

bed rails will work for this, but it's a PITA to weld with. very inconsistent and brittle at times but for this should work fine.

[Frosty]

bed rails will work for this, but it's a PITA to weld with. very inconsistent and brittle at times but for this should work fine.

 

Right you are but they drill and bolt nicely. They aren't mild steel so you have to use lower rpm. and oil or get good at sharpening bits.

 

Frosty The Lucky.