August 28, 201312 yr Granit bolder, 20# sledgehammer head, 2"+ solid set on end, rail set on end... I've seen a lot if other things used too. Train couplers, train axles, heavy forklift tines, dozer parts... I think Frosty and I have Ben guilty of using a stump and a Woden malet.
August 28, 201312 yr Adhamh, Yes the rigidizer and the ITC-100 are seperate products. I would suggest applying both. I believe the ITC-100 is more expensive, so less is good. Also, you only need a light coat of ITC. If you have the rigidizer, then by all means use it. Unless you have some satanite ? Either way. Looking good :) Good luck with the anvil. Charles Steven's gave good advice for options. Anything big and metal would do for starting out. Rail Road track is great if you can get some near you for cheap. Short piece, or a long piece burried in the ground. The Sledge hammer stood on end would also work. If all else fails, I've heard of people using I-Beams. But that is pretty much the worst option.
August 30, 201312 yr The rigidizer helps for longevity, making the fiber stiff enough that it doesn't flex and then crack off your ITC. It's all consumable in the long run, but it's a good idea to do rigidizer, then a reflective coating.
September 2, 201312 yr here's an update. I'm try to cut a 3/4" round and it's not working. Well, really I can't get the portion of the 3/4" round I want to cut up to yellow heat.... I have applied the rigidizer and the ITC-100. I also have a hole in the back of the forge to allow the round to pass through. I turned the forge on and let it heat up for 10 minutes. I then did two 10 minute heats to the round but it never got to yellow. In a forge that's getting hot enough how long should it take to get to yellow? Before I cut the hole in the back of the forge I did get an end to yellow. Im going to try that again with fire bricks blocking the back hole.
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