May 11, 201313 yr I use a propane forge, and am having what seem to be the common problem of heating only the select area I'm working on. My solution (and I'd be happy to hear of others) until I build a charcoal one, has been to periodically quench the other areas so as they do not bend, twist, and burn-up as I pretend to have control over my surroundings. I've tried to find the downside(s) of quenching a piece of 10XX again and again, without much luck. Can someone tell me how I'm screwing - up the metal on the molecular level, how it will inevitably blow - up in my face, and any better solutions? Thanks as always!
May 11, 201313 yr It shouldn't hurt if it's 1010 - 1030. Above 1030, you'll get some hardening and perhaps brittlenesss. Lots of so called "mild steel" is A36 which has a manganese addition and may be about 0.25 -0.27 carbon content. You'll need to experiment if it's A36.
May 11, 201313 yr Kinda depends on wot steel you are talking about.......10xxx does not tell that...1018 is mild steel and I do that when I bump metal into an end or the middle. 1084 is high carbon steel and I would not waste my effort...1095 is even higher carbon steel,,,,maybe..... If you are new to all of this just keep on workin and it will get easier.
May 11, 201313 yr Author Sorry to be obtuse -- 1080 is what I'm working with. Thanks for the replies so far!
May 11, 201313 yr 1080 is a knife grade steel and should be normalized rather than quenched or only quenched when it is definitely below austentizing temps!
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