Hardfacing not so hard?

[SoCal Dave]

I had previously started a topic about hardfacing an arena rake.  I hardfaced the comb that grooms the arenas with Stoody 35.  It's specifically designed for abrasion and that what it's used for.  However, I just re-hardfaced the tips since some of the hardfacing wore completely off and the metal to.  The most ware was on the end tines of the comb but only on the tips.  I understand that this gets most of the abrasion.  But, is there a better hardfacing rod.  I was thinking about Lincoln.  I know they make a hardfacing rod but not sure the specific model yet.  Anyone with experience with the Lincoln hardfacing rod or with other hardfacing rods.    

[Frosty]

Hardfacing dirt moving equipment is more complicated than logic and intuition says it should be. If you try hardfacing the entire contact surface it'll wear faster than just the leading face. the reason they hardface bucket teeth all the way around is because bucket teeth are already really, REALLY wear resistant. doesn't make sense? Join the guys at the hardfacing classes I took. Part of the reason bucket teeth can be hard faced all over is because they're replacement items so it doesn't make much difference if the hard facing is operating at max efficiency, so long as it gets a few more hours out of the things.

 

Rake tines. Im visualizing flat tines similar to a Lute (grade rake) and the hard facing got put on the tines all over. Well, the tines will flex and hard facing doesn't like flexing much so cracks begin deveoping and bits spall off. Now with voids in the leading faces wear begins on the base metal and is concentrated by the remaining hard facing. Soon enough you got a batch of nubs.

Yeah they wear on the outside tines first, it's where the most material is impacting the tines from the most vulnerable direction.

 

So, whats the right way to hard face flat tines? (I'm assuming they are flat tines, if they're round like a hay rake just replace them as they wear out.) You weld "buttons" on the forward faces of the tines, just almost the same diameter as the tine's width. Space them less than half the above width apart. That's it, about the best wear resistance you'll get.

 

Wondering if I'm nuts? In short, you betcha! But the hard facing BS is or was how it's done to best effect. Take a look at loader buckets, dozer blades, etc you'll see button welds, stripes, bands, zig zags, circles, etc. etc. but NOT solid facing. Well, when you DO see solid areas of hard facing it's because the welder or guy in charge didn't know what's what.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

[SoCal Dave]

I forgot to take pictures of my re-hardfacing.  I added a button on the tips.  About the size of your entire fingernail, had worn off the tips of the hardfacing I had applied.  The ends of the comb had the most wear as the tractor drivers like to go around the arenas in a counter clockwise motion, every time. Thanks for the info Frosty.  Has anyone used the Lincoln 60 hardfacing rod.  It has the highest RC rating of 60 compared to the Stoody 35 which I used?

[Steve H]

I have not used the Lincoln rod but have repaired anvil edges with the Stoody rod.  There is a recent distinction between some rods being "wear facing" vs 'hard facing'.  I think the stoody version I got was referred to as wear facing- ie; not as hard but tough as nails.  I've had great success using it for edge repair.

[SoCal Dave]

Stoody definitely has different rods for specific purposes.  Metal to metal, earth, abrasive contact, with some designed for impact also.  My need is for abrasive only as the arenas are pretty clean of rocks.  I've included pictures below of the comb that is used to groom the arenas.  Unfortunately, as mentioned before, I just added buttons with the stoody rod to the tips as they had the most wear and had worn down to the base metal.  

 

 

[Frosty]

Wear resistant is what you want for sure, we just called it all hard facing. DRATS and I prefer to keep terms correct. <sigh>

 

Frosty The Lucky.