FieryFurnace Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 I built myself a 2x48-inch belt grinder. It is run off of a 3/4-horse power, 1725 RPM motor, using an indirect drive system. I used a larger pulley on the motor, and smaller on the drive shaft to increase the belt RPM to 3500. That seems to be the common RPM used on metal-working belt grinders. I used mostly scrap steel in the shop. I purchased various bronze and plastic bushings, springs, bolts, toggle switch, and the drive belt new. My contact wheels are caster wheels purchased for $7 each at my steel yard. They are used 5.5-inch casters. They work a charm. Total expense is estimated at $70-$80 including the steel. I had the motor already. It seems to run great. I haven't really used it yet as it still needs mounting feet, and a designated work table. It's loud! That's its down-side. It's complete with tracking and belt tension control. There is also a backing plate behind part of the belt so that I can use a hard or slack belt. I also rewired the motor to an on/off toggle switch. Enough said! Here are the pictures. I figured it'd be smart to put a belt guard upfront to keep a shirt sleeve or finger from getting sucked in. I can still remove the pulley and belt without trouble. The shaft comes out the other direction so that's not an issue. Switch! The backing plate! It took about two days to make, quite a bit of head scratching, and some re-cut parts. I got the idea from doing a google image search for homemade belt grinders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted March 26, 2013 Author Share Posted March 26, 2013 Oh here are a couple more pics I forgot about! I used self tapping screws to attach the small home-made electric wire brackets that hold the motor feed wire in place. One of the screws grabbed the bracket and spun it around (I was using an electric screw gun,) and it slit the end of my finger open for the entire finger width. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EGreen Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 looks real good! ain't nothin in the world will stick to an eylid like slag from SS weld you don't even have to chip it. that stuff will go around corners huntin for eyelids! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John McPherson Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 Looks good! Consider adding an idler arm so you can use 2x72" belts, there is a better selection of industrial grits available. Grinding dust & grit will kill an open winding motor like that PDQ. Some sore of enclosure is in order for an old washing machine motor, etc. like that. When you replace it, look for a sealed unit. The dust is none to kind to lungs and the rest of the shop, either. Consider moving it outside for use when you can, and some sort of vacuum dust collection inside when you can't. A real respirator, not nuisance masks, is in order as well. Every knifemaker forum is full of cautionary tales about dust problems from these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted March 26, 2013 Author Share Posted March 26, 2013 I always wear safety glasses in the shop and require anyone in the shop to do so as well. If I"m grinding something with excess slag, or with the likelyhood of ricochet, I grab a pair of full goggles. Good points about the dust. I may go ahead and add a shop-vac dust port on the bottom just bellow the belt. It's kind of an ordeal to get stuff in/out of the shop, because my shop is behind the wood shop. I am wanting to add some shop-built, air filtration systems sometime this year to help things stay cleaner in general. The motor being open is something I wondered about. I may see about building a cover. I've got some thin sheet metal that I could bend to shape in 30 minutes or so. I'm hoping to use this one for a year or so, sell it, and build a much larger one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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