Package Opener (letter opener MKII)

[Chinobi]

This is actually a few months late, but i have some time and i figured i would share.

 

you can see my execution of the original letter opener design in this thread, its the entry level project numero uno at Adam's Forge:

http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/28631-new-from-southern-california/

 

i wanted to try my hand at designing a heavier version for cardboard and staples, as well as attempt a pattern on the twist.  the piece functions as it should, however because its so short with only 4 cutting teeth it is very slow and you need to really saw it through to make any headway.

 

 

the parameters were, using the same starting stock size as the original letter opener, have a straight side for paper and tape, serrated side for cardboard and possibly twine, blunt forked tip for those big copper staples, and the scroll on the guard as the obligatory bottle opener :)

 

the pattern didnt come out as well as i had hoped, but thats why we test things.  i was trying to get a vertical line running through the twisted pattern by laying out chisel cuts in the opposite direction before twisting the handle.

 

you may be able to see also some cracking where the guard bends back on the handle, is that from burning the metal or from bending too cold?

 

potential improvements for a MK III could be:

drop the integral guard entirely and use the savings in stock length to make the blade longer

try a pineapple pattern to make it a little more grippy, maybe split the 'pommel' area or just a really short return curve on the end to give something to catch on while pulling

different tooth geometry, not sure which alteration will have the most benefit, depth, TPI, some combination of the two

(for a personal/demo model) upgraded steel

 

id like to be able to offer it back to the school as an additional blueprint for their course (or as a level 2 version) so i want to keep the material the same

 

i welcome any comments and criticism, this was i think only the 3rd or 4th item i forged, ever, so its fairly rough :)

 

thanks for looking!

[Ridgewayforge]

Instead of cutting teath out, try and just make chisel marks into the edge of it, like that of a file, but coarser.

[Chinobi]

those were chiseled in, put the blade in the post vice with just the tapered edge protruding and struck in the teeth vertically with a hot cut.  i was thinking as i was driving home that i should try cutting them from alternating sides to make them somewhat smaller/thinner.

 

or do you mean just nick them in maybe 1/32 deep and go for small bite high TPI?

[Chuck in Ms]

Very handy tool, more TPI will help as well as not nearly that deep.

[Chinobi]

thanks Chuck :) , i lost a lot of the raked angle on the teeth when i cleaned them up with the file, im going to test a few different methods and types of chisel on the next one, as well as a much smaller tooth.

[windancer]

S0,,,,,,

How does it work?

Dave

[Chinobi]

batteries not included :) i kid

 

the fork on the end is a handheld prybar tip for dealing with staples found in heavier packaging, the straight side is filed to an edge, but as it is low carbon its no blade, but that side is a generic letter opener for paper and tape.  the serrated side works pretty much as you would expect it would, for tearing through cardboard and heavier materials than paper.  see the OP for the shortcomings of the tooth geometry.  the scroll on the end of the guard can be wedged beneath the cap of your favorite frosty bottled beverage and used as a lever to free the contents therein.