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flattening welding table


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I'vhe got a welding table that is 4x4 with 1/2" top.The top has a 3/8" crown to it side to side. It has been tacked around the perimeter every few inches.Any thoughts on a combination of running beads and or using a rosebud to restore flattness using the heat and shrinkage to push/pull back to flat . Would it be better to try with it still welded to frame or should I cut it free?. Before I go crazy and jump in headfirst and make it worse I thought I would seek advise from others who might have more experience flattening thick material .

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you can run bead to put in shrink lines. it will get weird looking while doing so. use a chalk to draw a pattern in the table to follow and keep to the pattern. if the budge is 3/8" high then divide it in 3" or 4" sections and run beads to draw it down. then grind smooth. if the budge needs more then split the pattern again.

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I like the idea of marking out a  pattern with soapstone , seems like that might help me pull it flat uniformally whem I'm running beads. The table was dead flat when I made it years ago but I guess getting careless spot heating stuff that was clamped to it with a rosebud made the flatness go south. I want to get it flat again cause its my favorite table to weld on for projects that arent real big cause being 4x4 it is easy to reach in anywhere to weld stuff up. I'll give it a shot tomorrow.Thanks,Bob.

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First thing is first: how "flat" is FLAT to you???? You talking between 1/16"-1/8" or sub 0.020"? If you don't mind cutting, about the fastest thing you can do is cut off the top and stitch weld it to either C-channel or I-beam stringers on the bottom then reattach to frame.... If you want it in the 0.010"-0.020" flatness range, it's EXTREME work which is too much and too complicated to post on here. Not to mention you would need calibrated straight edges, feeler gauges, and layout bluing of that magnitude to check it....

-Hillbilly

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