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Striking anvil build


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striking anvil need not be so hard. Remember that many people nowdays do not possess the accuracy in weilding the heavy hammer as greatly experienced smiths. If one uses a hardened striking anvil and make a bad strike the next thing he may see is the high-speed hammer returning to his head.

A piece of A36 can absorb all the missed hits and still hold a pretty good surface. If fact the high quality surface is not even so greatly required as much of your work will be conducted with bottom and top tools. A36 is also very easily repaired comparred to hardened steel. Think of it as a platten instead of an anvil, or other shaped plate, but the shaping will be mirrored via the tools. It seems the height and rigidity are the supreme qualities, followed with a good hardy hole that makes bottom tools intact yet removable. Do include a pritchell or two.

The requirement of a very wide piece is almost non existent and may be wasteful. A thick chunk about 6 or 7 inches wide and about 13 inches long will be plenty large enough for most. And yet there can be exceptions to everything. Go ask some boiler makers or ship steel formers and they will give you plenty of exceptions to carry out their extreme work. There is not so many of those guys present on this forum.


Carry on

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you got a price just for the slab, with or without a hardy hole. The hardy hole is not so difficult to make, once the primary hole is established. If I were to drift a 1 inch square hardy I would start with a hole larger than 3/4 and no larger than 7/8...most assuradly less than 1inch. There is a need for an economical piece of metal such as that here...just saying.



Carry on

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