ogmios Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Hi folks, At long, long last, my Kerrihard is coming home :) I bought a used 25# Kerrihard power hammer about 12 years back (from a gent that had bought it from the original owner 40 years prior, but never used it himself). It has sat in my parent's garage since then, unused and disassembled. Now I have a garage/shop of my own, and I'll be going to fetch my hammer in a few weeks! Dreams can come true ;) By all accounts, (with a motor added) it will still function; but it has seen better days, and been patched somewhat in the ancient past. I'll post pictures in the near future, but was wondering if anyone could offer any advice on restoration? Specific initial questions that I have include the following: 1. Suggestions for a motor? 2. Best way to clean off the ancient, congealed grease? 3. Best type of grease to use now? 4. Any point (aside from ascetics) in painting it? 5. Options for replacing the little oil/grease reservoirs that screw in on top? 6. Tips or opinions on bolting it to the ground? 7. Advice on assembling a safety cage around the spring/ram mechanism? Anything you could offer would be most appreciated! I am hoping to have it running again for 2014, it's 100-year birthday! many thanks, Patrick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will. K. Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Can't wait to see pics of your hammer. What kind of dies does yours have in it? I've been working on fixing a 30lb I bought about a year ago. If I'm rememering correctly the nominal RPM of the eccentric is 225 as stated on the clutch plate. Mine came with a jack shaft set-up & a 1750 rpm motor that sit on an angle iron frame that is mounted using the support brace bolts. Little Giant carries new springs for them. Grease cups, oil cups & drip oilers are still availalbe. Mcmaster-Carr carries them. There are a few videos of them running on youtube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 A trick I learned from my Uncle for dealing with dirty old equipment that will be stripped down is to visit one of the self serve car washes (that doesn't ban the practice) and use the high pressure wand and soapy water to give the first rough cleaning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew T Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 My first step for cleaning old machinery is a putty knife, then move on to other methods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 I like to use a cup wire brush on an angle grinder. dose the job ware a resporator most of the old paints were lead base. have to get your self a copy of Pounding out profits. Also the Blacksmith's & hammer emporium by douglas Freund has a chapter on the company Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
781 Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 The paint on it now will most likely contain lead so dont breath eat it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Go to the dollar store and buy several cans of the cheap spray on oven cleaner. spary it down good let it set for an hour hose it off. do it all over again till you get it like you want it. I've rebuilt a bunch of hammers this the best method I have found for the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ten Hammers Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 OR, you could just leave it alone, grease and all. Mine has looked the same for likely 75 years. Picturers on other puter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MOblacksmith0530 Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Elbow grease Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Javan C.R. Dempsey Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Kerosene, and carb cleaner are the two best things to use imho for cleaning old machines. Doesn't matter much with power hammers, since youre not dealing with precision surfaces, but if you get around to restoring old mills, lathes, or the like, you need to be very considerate with the products and tools you use. Some heavy cleaner/degreasers will leave acidic residues, that can continue to eat the metal afterward, and any abrasives or steel tools shouldn't be used on precision parts ideally. Kerosene, scotchbrite pads for the non precision surfaces, and #0000 steel wool for the precision ones, will take care of most issues, along with a plastic putty knife. May need acetone for any oil based paints. Carb cleaner spray works great for heavily crusted parts, after a kerosene soak. A brass brush is also very useful. Invest in some fluid film to protect everything from rust after cleaning. One small pump bottle goes a long long way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogmios Posted January 2, 2013 Author Share Posted January 2, 2013 Gentlemen! Thank-you for all of the advice and assistance! As promised, attached is a pic of my newly reassembled Kerrihard. Very happy to see it standing on it's own again, after ~12 years. A great way to begin the New Year. I've now removed the (broken) ram guide, and am hunting for a Toronto-area fabricator that can make a replacement for me...any idea what I might expect to pay for a piece like this? After that: install a motor, lots of grease, and away I go! Patrick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogmios Posted January 3, 2013 Author Share Posted January 3, 2013 Hi again folks, Just realized that I was remiss in not answering a few points above... Thanks for the rust/paint removal tips, but I think I like the "leave it alone approach ;). Other than cleaning out any crud on moving surfaces. My hammer is a 30#'er, I just took the bathroom scales out to the garage. Thanks for the reference to the two books above. In fact, I already have them! The dies appear to be unremarkable flat rectangles...? Happy to post more detailed pix, as might be helpful in your own efforts. Looks like many people are interested in the photo's, so here are two more: 1. a side view of the dies that came with the hammer 2. a top view of the ram guide. Cheers, Patrick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogmios Posted January 4, 2013 Author Share Posted January 4, 2013 Hi folks, I've heard from several of you, which I appreciate immensely! Just to put it out there, I'm looking for a vintage ram guide (rare as they are), or recommendations for a fabrication company that could create a decent replacement for me. And yes, I've spoken with Sid at Little Giant...he's fresh out of such parts ;) Regards, Patrick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciladog Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 Ogmios, Any good job shop could make that part. If you can't find one near your location then try sending your pictures with some dimensions to Keith Fenner for some advice and possible costs. Here is a link to his website and Youtube channel. http://turnwrightmachineworks.com/ http://www.youtube.com/user/KEF791/videos?view=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogmios Posted January 12, 2013 Author Share Posted January 12, 2013 Hello folks, Just a short update on my progress... 1. I've found a local gent who's putting together a quote for me, to cast/machine a replacement ram guide. 2. I oiled up the works this morning, and it made a world of difference! Without the ram being in place, the hammer cycles by hand with very little effort. All seems clean and tight. 3. I've bolted the original ram guide pieces to the frame, and will reinstall the ram today, more oil, and see how a manual (only) cycling goes. Thanks to all for the helpful notes, P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Larson Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 Old cogealed/dried grease can be softened using oil or diesel fuel. Once you have softyened the stuff and wiped it off, and repeated the process umpteen times, you can then removed the oil from the surface with hot water and detergent.. Saves the paint. And wash your clothes. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogmios Posted January 13, 2013 Author Share Posted January 13, 2013 Hi folks, Got a quote back tonight. Steep, but within means. Cast iron, and machined to spec. Anyone else in need of a ram guide? Patrick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciladog Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 Ogmios, I'm curious and have a question for you. Why would you pay someone to cast (or have cast) a new part from I assume cast iron when that part can be machined from stock mild steel and have it end up being much stronger? The profile of that part lends itself to weak points which is why it broke in the first place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogmios Posted January 13, 2013 Author Share Posted January 13, 2013 Good question. I've spoken with a few folks, and the costly aspect with a fully machined piece is the sheer amount of material that must be removed. In contrast, casting it, and then a bit of machining is relatively simpler, and today's cast iron is (I've read) much better than in the past. You could make a ram guide from multiple parts, but I think that this would put too much stress on the mounting plate on the hammer's frame...and if that breaks, it's a whole different level of problem/cost. It makes me wonder if the ram guide was actually meant to be a "disposable", high-stress piece...? Any other perspectives? P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciladog Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 I have a friend in Pennsylvania who made a similar part for his hammer. He has a monster of a horizontal mill that he did the hogging on. I'm going to send him your pic and ask how long he thinks it will take to make the part. If someone is going to cast that part from cast iron the first have to make a pattern. Then they have to get it cast. I can't see how that will be less expensive than machining it from scratch. I guess it may have something to do with the size of the mills used. I'll let you know what I learn. If you have already commited to the job let me know that too so I don't waste anyone's time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doc Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 My approach would be to have a bar machined to form the ways and then weld/fab the rest up out of plate etc: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogmios Posted January 13, 2013 Author Share Posted January 13, 2013 Agreed, there are several approaches. My concerns were as follows: 1. Somebody local, so that I could provide the original part. 2. A single piece construction, to minimize stress to the frame. 3. Preferably someone familiar with power hammers, who would understand the stresses involved. 4. Someone that could provide either solution, and provide multiple quotes. For those that have offered alternative approaches, could you suggest an estimate of what I might expect to pay? P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogmios Posted January 13, 2013 Author Share Posted January 13, 2013 Toronto, OntarioFor those that were asking, here are three sketches with the measurements...Oh, and here are two shots of the hammer's frame, to which the ram guide mounts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciladog Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 Well I got an answer. 10-15 hours of machine work to make from mild steel. That of course includes all the tapped holes. Both Sam and Doc know who I am speaking of. He said that you can make this part from a weldment then machine and you will never know the difference. Just giving you some options. Doc and Sam he says hi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 . He said that you can make this part from a weldment then machine and you will never know the difference. I was thinking the same thing but I reckoned welding it together would warp it too much...... :huh: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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