Swage Block Ponderings

[wd&mlteach]

I have been pondering designing my own swage block for some time now. I have a small foundry and I have made patterns/matchplates before, that is not the problem. What is the problem, is that my foundry only has a 16# crucible, not much of a swage block. I recently contacted a local foundry as priced out a short prodcution run. They indicated that If I made the pattern, ordered the right match plate (Hunter 20 x 24), they would only charge for time and materials. A small block the size of the SFC block would cost about $77 to cast out of ASTM A536, plus whatever the matchplate costs. What are your thoughts? If I was just to do one it is a no-brainer to order the SFC block and just bite the bullet on S&H. But if I ordered a bunch say 30, it could bring the cost down

Of course what would I do with 30 of them!?!

[oakwoodironworks]

I bought 1 of the SFC blocks a few years ago and the shipping to GA wasn't bad. Seems like a lot of trouble to get them made if you only need one of them. If you want to go into the swage block business, then that is something different.

[ThomasPowers]

Well If you made up a batch and took them to somewhere like Quad-State and had a decent price on them you would probably sell a good number of them.

Not knowing where you are at it would be hard to say what you would get in Australia or South Africa or Hong Kong, Canada, the UK,...

[GNJC]

If you have access to a block that will do all you want it probably makes sense to get it. But, if you want some special features, there is nothing better than designing your own. I did so and am very pleased with the block I now have.

Surprising how many 'versions' I designed before I was satisfied; but this was the first time I had designed any such tool. With your pattern-making experience you should end up with a good one.

Please keep us posted as you go on with this.

[wd&mlteach]

Thanks for the feedback folks. I think I will spend some time designing a block and making the pattern. I will then run it past the PABA members and see if any of them are willing to bite as well. If I get enough to make it worthwhile, then I will have it cast.

My next step is to start designing. I know there are a bunch of threads on this already, so I will start looking. However, I would like ask the group what size is optimal and what features do you like? The SFC block seems to me to be a great compromise for handling, shipping, and surface features, do you really need more? Those of you that have one, what would you improve, if you could?

[John McPherson]

I have two: a 6x6x3 20 lb small block from Kayne's to take to demos, and a larger 10x10x4 block for shop use. Anything bigger is hard for one normal sized hobbyist person to move and turn in order to use all the sides in a cradle stand, without overhead support and lifting straps. The trunnion mounts solve that problem, but how many pros with big shops are out there pining away to pay full price for new, really?

Half rounds and vee shapes (90 and 60 degrees would be nice) on three edges, one long curved edge. Bowl, spoon(s), betty lamp, ladle depressions all see use. In ten years I have used the fireplace shovel pattern once.

Thru-holes are an iffy proposition, especially in small blocks (Under 200 lbs.) Unless you use the highest grades of iron, radius the corners of the square holes, etc., they are prone to cracking when beat on with sledges while making hardy tooling, enormous nails and such. Not enough mass to absorb the shock.

The Green-Mengel (?) block that they raffled at this summer's ABANA conference was altered down slightly from the previous pattern to fit in a flat rate box. Shipping costs vs. size & weight is something else to consider.

[Francis Trez Cole]

http://www.piehtoolco.com/contents/en-us/d1093.html

here is where I bought the one I have

[wd&mlteach]

All of those blocks seem fantastic and would be great to manufacture. From what I know about casting and manufacturing, *if I am going to do it, it might as well be bigger. I am not sure what a matchplate for a Hunter maching costs. What I do know is that the real brains and cost is usually with setting up the pattern, gating, risers, and a sprue base, after that it is just pounding sand. When I get a minute to start planning this I am going to feel out the optimal size for me, which would be in the neighborhood of 100 pounds. Anthing less than that I should just go with the SFC block as it is cheapest and seems very well thought out. Anyhting more might become tough to move on a whim or need. John, thatnks for the input on size, through holes, and establishing a radius. As I said I plan on using ductile cast and I can spec which material I need. Form what I know it is better than straight cast, but still can crack. That stuff is tough. I have an NC Tools anvil and according to AIA, they are cast form ductile..

[John McPherson]

Just checked on some prices and sizes online. New swage blocks are running about the same, $/lb, as good anvils.

The 60 lb SFC is a bargain, priced less than the 20 lb block from Kayne! And your basic 10x10x4 size is going to push 100 lbs.

[Francis Trez Cole]

size is not the issue. as long as you have it anchored to the ground then you have the weight of the whole earth behind it. If you want you can make one piece at a time to fit in your hardie hole. check out "the skill of blacksmithing" by Mark Aspery and make only what you need. make the top tool to match at the same time. Very cost effective one of my anvil's weights about 40# chunk of steel look up Brian Brazeal striking anvil on this site, with the legs easy to move around. It has a 1" hardie hole and I am not afraid to put the power behind my swing when swinging a sledge hammer. A bottom of a cylinder helium or oxygen is usually con caved great for dishing metal. Be creative think out of the box. Ductile metal is fine good hard stuff like any anvil or swedge block you can abuse it.