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I Forge Iron

Hay Budden and a stand


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I took my first class with a local blacksmithing group last week, and that inspired me to make time to finish the stand for my anvil. I bought the Hay Budden a few months ago, it's been sitting in my shop unused. It's about 130 lbs according to the gentleman I bought it from, which seems about right. I cleaned it up a bit today while working on the stand, I need to write down the numbers on it to try and figure out the age. The horn is a little misshapen, but the ring and rebound are great.

The stand consists of a 9x15x3/4" top plate. The legs are 4x4x1/2", on an 8* angle from vertical. The feet are 1/2" plate, with holes drilled in the bottom so I can fill the legs with sand and oil. I need to pick up a pipe thread tap for that and I'll be set, other than adding some tool holders. In addition to the side brackets, there's a hold down on each end that bolts to the top plate. I plan to put either silicone caulk or maybe some asphalt paper underneath the anvil to quieten the ring. I took a lot of my design ideas from various stands I've seen here, and overall I'm pretty happy with how it came out. If I did another one I might change a few things, mostly a thicker top plate cut to match the base of the anvil a bit better and move the legs in closer. I want to get some time working on this one before changing anything, though.

DSC01748.jpg

DSC01749.jpg

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Very nice stand.

What kind of tool holders are you thinking about putting on it?

I also just completed my anvil stand (mine looks quite similar to yours actually). One thing I am trying to figure out is a way to move the stand + anvil unit, with less difficulty and pain. I do my forging in the garage. My idea is to be able to move the cars out onto the driveway, roll out the anvil, forge and tools, and be ready to light up the forge in about 5 minutes. The forge is on wheels already, but moving the stand + anvil is mega difficult to say the least. Any ideas?

Markus

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Thanks y'all! I'm pretty happy with it, but every time I look at it I see little things that could be better. I've been told I'm my own worst critic sometimes. :lol:

I'm planning to bend some 3/8" round stock and weld to the stand to hold a hammer and perhaps some hardy tools. I don't want to put too much around the top plate, so I'm considering attaching them to the side of the legs. I haven't completely decided yet, I'd welcome any input.

I'm in the same situation as you, forging outside. I don't have a good place here to bolt the stand down, and still have room to work around it. We're planning to move before long, so I really can't build a dedicated smithy yet either. The stand is already pretty heavy, it will only be heavier with sand in the legs. I have a pallet jack, so I would like to use that to move it around. I thought about putting in a cross piece to tie the legs together just a couple of inches off the floor. That would allow me to lift it by sliding one leg of the pallet jack under it, but I don't want to do that yet. I'm afraid a crossbeam that low might get in the way when trying to work around the anvil. I could be wrong, but I haven't got enough experience on it yet to really know.

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Nice Stand. If I were going to be moving an anvil around on a regular basis I would choose either a mobile base for shop equipment. Shop Fox makes one that handles 700#. Or I would go to HF and buy a hand truck, appliance dolly, with solid wheels and use that. I have one a school that I use and I keep the anvil on the stump for the whole move. It is a refridgerator dolly and I use the fabric strap to help keep the anvil put. However, I am sure a fabric strap will not keep the anvil from leaving the stump if it decides to jump off if I hit something wiht the dolly during the move.

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Wheels can be attached so that they are quick to remove and get out of the way. Think about how the wheels on a hand-truck don't actually touch the ground until you tip the unit back a few degrees.... and duplicate that on the two back legs. Then, all you need is a socket on the front leg that you can plug a handle into.

Did that make sense?

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Wheels can be attached so that they are quick to remove and get out of the way. Think about how the wheels on a hand-truck don't actually touch the ground until you tip the unit back a few degrees.... and duplicate that on the two back legs. Then, all you need is a socket on the front leg that you can plug a handle into.

Did that make sense?


Yes, it did. That's a great idea. Thanks! I could weld a socket on the front leg, running parallel to the leg. A handle could slide into that, and slide out when not needed. The wheels could work just like the hand truck wheels you mentioned, sitting above the floor until tipped. A simple pin could hold the axle in place.
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You can put wheels on the 2 legs under the heel. Position them like a hand cart then use some square stock that will fit into the hardie hole from the bottom them bend it and attach a wheel so all you have to do is slide the wheel hardie tool in from the bottom then tip it til its on all 3 wheels and roll along. If your worried about it tipping you can make the bar a T shape and put 2 wheels on it

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