Chuck_Steak Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 Over the weekend I was talking to a relative of mine who was playing around making cedar shingles for a project. He was using a hatchet because he didn't have a froe on the farm. I figured this was a do-able project for my beginning forging skills. I looked around a bit and found the couple how-to's on other sites to get an idea of the various ways to construct the froe blade. I used the arc welder to finish the wrap on mine. After welding I tapered the hole slightly to hold the handle in place better. I also bent the blade prior to beveling so it straightened itself out. I used a piece of structural steel that I had from work. It was about 3/4" wide and maybe 3/8" thick. I quenched it and tempered it, although there is not a ton of carbon in the material, so it is not exceptionally hard, which I gather is just fine for this application. The handle is a piece of maple I had in the yard (didn't have anything else easily around). The black on the handle is from a torch, I was playing around. I didn't get the blade quite perfectly straight, but I was able to split some shakes pretty thin (~1/8"). All in all seems to be a success and was a fun project. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 There are a couple of threads on the site as to how to sharpen a froe, the consensus is dull with the question being left handed, or right handed. (grin) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GNJC Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 Chuck, the general concensus on IFI is that Glenn is a knowledgable and benign presence; however, I think his comment regarding the 'handedness' of froes reveals a darker, maybe even cruel, side... there will be no end to your troubles if you commit to a sharpening bias. Like religion and politics, avoid it and go for an even bevel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck_Steak Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 Well I did go for an even double bevel and it seems to work pretty well. I can't say I had any reason for my choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 regarding the 'handedness' of froes reveals a darker, maybe even cruel, side... there will be no end to your troubles if you commit to a sharpening bias. Being left handed and living in a right handed world has many disadvantages to which I must adapt. But it has advantages which allow me to make tools etc easier for me, being left handed. (I hammer using either hand, depending on the job. The left hand is better at general work and detail, the right hand better at general work and places where less fine detail is needed. I have and use both left handed diagonal peen and right handed diagonal peen hammers. And yes it DOES make a difference, left or right handed, in their use.) There are many left handed tools, hammers, scissors, rulers, etc and even pencils. You got me, as I many times throw the handedness of an item out there to get people to think and consider which type tool they are making, or using. The froe is a tool to rive wood. IF you get down to the fine details you may find a difference in bevel function at the beginning. As the froe moves to a lever function, the handedness changes to arm control, again left or right. A quick search of the net I found this.Angle not that important, but needs to be on both sides of the blade. A froe is not a cutting tool,actually a wedge. Pound it into the wood, then use the handle to pry open the split. I have several genuine antique froes. The blade is usually quite thick, around 3/8 inch. Most folks think making shingles, but I've seen them used to make boards..Do not sharpen the edge of the froe. If you do, you will cause it to cut into the wood as you advance a split, particularly when you are trying to influence the cut by pushing or pulling the froe handle to influence the direction of the split. I have visited other sites where a single bevel is suggested. I have not rived enough wood to be any type of expert on the subject. I would encourage an experienced river to provide us with information based on their skill and expertise on the subject. If you know about the subject please add to the knowledge base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 I have done a fair amount of riving and I really prefer a froe with full width bevels... making them truly ambidextrous. A slight convex secondary bevel at the very edge helps to keep the edge strong enough for prying. I have used them sharpened in several ways though and they all seem to work fine. I kind of like the curve on this one and think it would be helpful most of the time! I usually use leaf spring stock and do not heat treat. I just use them with an open eye most of the time too (unwelded that is). Plenty of strength without welding the eye. A thicker stock than many modern froes is superior... 3/8" or a bit thicker on the spine is ideal! I have done plenty of work with only a 1/4" thick froe though... a shorter bevel if they are thinner like that is better. A thick spine gives a better wedge effect and more meat to absorb the blows of the club... which if it is tough stuff will be a hammer as no wooden club will equal the force of a 4 pound sledge. No need for a hammer on cedar though... splits easily and clean. Oak and elm are different stories! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GNJC Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Hmm.. I have only made a few hundred shingles as an experiment with a friend for a small lean-to, so I can't comment advisedly upon the ideal froe for that job; I guess a single bevel could be fine for the short distance involved. However, I couldn't count the number of thousands of lengths of hazel, ash and chestnut I have riven using a froe with double bevel. Most of these have been for fencing of one sort ot another and hedging - paling, wattle etc. For this work I believe a double bevel is essential since, when the wood is in the cleaving break, you are using the combination of blade pressure and tension on the clefts to steer the direction of the split. A single bevel blade would tend to favour one cleft more than the other, leading to the split running out on the side of the bevel. I don't think a froe need be razor sharp, and a thick back to it is certainly an advantage; blade width, depends on job, for general riving no less than 1 1/2" would be my choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EGreen Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 used to be a saying pertaining to dull pocket knives as being "dull as a froe" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 Your search for the term froe returned 44 results. These are just a few you may find useful.http://www.iforgeiro.../page__hl__froehttp://www.iforgeiro.../page__hl__froehttp://www.iforgeiro.../page__hl__froehttp://www.iforgeiro.../page__hl__froehttp://www.iforgeiro.../page__hl__froehttp://www.iforgeiro.../page__hl__froe The search engine is your friend and can dig out all manner of information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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