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I Forge Iron

help with scroll


irnsrgn

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It's tough to get the ha'penny perfectly round and flowing out of the scroll body. Where you stopped on the tip form, I would have taken another heat and cooled the round side in water, then hammered down on the anvil to smooth the transition.

There is also a tool which helps get this transition correct. Imagine a cut off hardy with the edge rolled naturally over to be parallel to the ground. The scroll tip is hung off the edge of the "hardy" and hammered as necessary.

This isn't a criticism - just a hint to make that ha'penny as round as a coin.

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The images are a touch grainy (had to use the phone camera), though here it is. I find it necesarry to use it for particular sizes of material and certain scrolls and the majority are just done on the face and over the far edge of the anvil.

2319.attach

2320.attach

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Looks good, man. Just depends if you are happy with it or not. I went through the same thing as you a couple of months ago when I was doing some shelf brackets. I now have about 10 screwed up halfpenny scroll ends in my scrap pile.

I finally decided that I like a shorter taper when I do a halfpenny scroll, but that's just my preference. If you go too thin it's really easy to mangle the end. So, I was using 1/2" square on these and I shoulder it down to about 1/4".

I attached a couple pictures of my scroll starter tool. I get it started in there and then quench the end before it put it in the scroll jig to keep from damaging it. Hope that helps!

DF1-102-1.jpg

halfpennytool001.jpg

halfpennytool002.jpg

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the snub end one half penny, scroll ends are a bit a long tapered difficult for tio or beginning smiths to master and also make them look good, so I came up with an alternative that is easy and pleasing to the eye and automatically blends.

We just made a long taper on the end and rolled a rat tail on the very end.

2326.attach

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