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Sick Saymak


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My friend Jim is having probs with his SM, It runs eraticly when it warms up and when starting, after the 3 taps it hits hard up top several times and after finishing a scession as well. I tried the ram adj and it didn't make much difference..........I noticed what look like score lines on the piston as shown, although nt real deep they are there......Does anyone in Colorado work on these things? Thanks MB

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My suggestion would be to pull off the top cover and check the hoses for holes/tightness. I've had problems with mine and needed to replace some. Also, is the hammer getting enough oil? The valve that came with the hammer is touchy and is just about worthless.
Basically it's a very simple system and there are usually glaring errors when it doesn't work. I had a 50kg for 6 yrs and for the past 4 years have a 60kg.
Tom Clark had a bad habit of continually trying to rework the hammers, so each batch is different from the previous. I've heard that it was a point of contention between he and Uri Hoffi. Some versions have a check valve in the system. You may want to confirm that it works properly. Mine makes a lot of noise so I know its working.
John

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Similar issues with my SSM50 were solved by replacing the gasket under the regulator. The original gasket was red rubber pinched between the bottom of the regulator assembly and a pipe "T" and was leaking. I replaced it with an "O" ring, and after learning how to adjust the regulator it works well again.
I hope this helps ... air leaks in the plumbing and assemblies are a big deal as John says.

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The regulator in my hammer is just behind the front cylinder and "regulates" the ram lift pressure in the idle conditon. It is what controls the 3 initial hits (as recomended by Tom Clark) on start-up with the ram in the down position. Ultimately, with no leaks, is should be adjusted for the ram to oscillate about 1/4" or a little less when idle.
The easiest way to adjust it (from my experience) is to start in the "backed off" position and turn the adjusting screw in until the ram is oscilating uniformly. If the response to adding tredle is slow or delayed turn it in a fraction of a turn ... if the ram returns and idles with more than 1/4" of motion back it out a little ... until the action is consistent.
I learned this all by trial and error ...

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Thanks all, The hammer was reported to sieze up when it got hot, ie the crank wouldn't turn and the ram cycled very slowly.... The belt isn't loose and there was no smoke that you would get from a slipping belt......... When I looked at it today it wouldn't sieze and ran perfectly...? They're gonna run it hard on MON. and call me if it acts up again then I'll take a vid.........mb

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I have had oil problems due to the poor quality stock valve. Also the stock hoses are not very good quality as they tend to break down. I have replaced them all with rubber reenforced exhaust hose that they use on boats. Sounds like the hammer got too hot due to not enough oil. Been there done that.

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I have had oil problems due to the poor quality stock valve. Also the stock hoses are not very good quality as they tend to break down. I have replaced them all with rubber reenforced exhaust hose that they use on boats. Sounds like the hammer got too hot due to not enough oil. Been there done that.


Should the oil actually be dripping off the ram?We stopped just short of that.
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I was told by Tom Clark that there should be just a light film of oil on the ram. My experience has born this out as correct. If you run too much oil will get oil vapor out of exhaust that will not be pleasant to deal with. I sometimes when I am running it for a long time will open up the oil valve just to run a little extra through the machine. I do this just as a precaution so that I am not worrying about the hammer running dry or too hot.

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Check with BOB ALEXANDER. Desota, Missouri or http://www.ozarkschool.com/.

I don't have Bob's phone # but he was selling the DVD that Kent Hepworth did for Tom about setting up and maintaining the SAY-MAK POWER HAMMERS. Kent spent about 3 days with Tom filming this DVD and no telling how much time editing it.
I also don't know if the Ozarkschool is still active or if a phone call there will get you anything.

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  • 4 weeks later...

My friend who owns it was doing some hard forging sessions with it, that is more or less double teaming it and it was ( as far as I know still is) shutting down when it gets real hot. I could only hold my hand on the ram cylinder for less than 5 sec when it was failing.....Guess that's pretty hot eh? Now that he's slowed down the pace it seems to behave but I still have concerns re the heat.....Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got It!.... ^_^ .....I was watching Jim forging with the Saymack this morning and it was going ok it seemed so I moseyed around the side of his shop to relieve myself....lucky for him......I looked up and noticed the intake and exaust chuffing away and I noticed the exaust had an open 1 1/2'' pipe with a little oil dripping (ok) and the intake had a funny time lawnmower muffler on it's 1 1/2'' pipe. Hmmmm <_< ....Could it be?? Yes we removed the silly thing an the hammer woke right up..... B)
The weenie muffler had 42 .10 holes in it and I conservatively estimated the flo was restricted by 2/3...... ....When it got hot after an hour or so it would just gag and die, poor thing :( (and I mean HOT).
It runs a tad slower but it hits much harder....all better.

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A friends got that hot once, seazed the ram too. He now has a K&N air filter on it and a bigger intake pipe.


I reckon the reason it was stalling was because it was begining to seeze, hope he didn't mess it up....I took the cover off the ram and the bore looked ok....We'll see.
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We pulled the whole thing apart after it cooled. The intake had minimal galling on the piston. Smoothed that up and made the hose connections better and tried to straighten out a little kink. Runs great now... but then, we haven't made any stainless spatulas lately either.... Those are an easy hammer to work on!

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