Rivet Header Snap

[Ron Hicks]

I want to make the bottom & top tools for rounding rivet heads. Are they called "Rivet Snap" ?
Is there like a standard rule of thumb for the dia. of the dome for the shank size?
Say like for a rivet made from 3/8 rd. bar?

Whats the proper way to use the tools ?

Thanks
Ron

[ThomasPowers]

We always called them a rivet "set" There is probably a government "standard" somewhere but as my rivets are not life critical applications I do what I think looks good.

I've bought a bunch of sets over the years never paid over a US$1 for one at the fleamarkets.

You might check to see if a good catalog Roper Whitney or old Pexto catalog gives dimensions for their sets.

[johnny99]

Hi Ron.
Check out either the Mc-Master- Carr Or the Grainger catalog They are on line, and will give the shape and size (shank vs. head) of different size rivets.
I just bought something like 700 1/2" shank rivets from Grainger for like $75.00 and reforged the heads into rosets. Way cheeper than labor to make them. Centaur forge also sells a starter set w/a selection of different sizes.

To make rivet headers, and sets. I use the split design header that fits in the vise. and just drill into the end of an apropriate rod, then heat and drive down onto a master to make the set.

[Ron Hicks]

Im not doing any life critical applications & thought a Blacksmith made his tools.

I found a little about rivets in an old book
The rivet Im talking about is a Cup , Spherical, or Snap head rivet & the top tool is call a Snap.
The head size Im:confused:
for width of head for a 3/8 shank = 9/16 dia. ?
& hight the dia. of shank = 3/8 ?

They talk about Unwin's Rule ??

Not sure was it WW2 a riveted ship or sub. sunk and that was what brought about Arc Welding ?

Ron

[johnny99]

As I understand it. Riveted ships were considered superior durring WW-II, but they couldn't maintain production of liberty ships so they started welding them. Had several split apart and sink, giving welding a bad name until they fixed the bugs. (this info brought to you courtesy of the history channel and insomnia).
As far as snap rivets, not really sure. Sorry.

[ThomasPowers]

Funny I prefer to make pattern welded knives to making tools----long ago I found out that I could weld up a billet in the same ammount of time it took me to make a set of tongs and the billet was worth 3-5 *times* what the tongs were.

I make what I can not find at a price I am willing to pay---like my Ti tongs I made about 7? years ago. I've smelted iron from ore too for the experience.
I went to gas forge workshops and built two propane forges and I've done several coal/charcoal forges.

I have not made my own post vise, anvil, drill, swageblock, powerhammer or screwpress as I was able to buy the lot of them for *very* reasonable ammounts.

I'd put it that a blacksmith *can* make his own tools (and a representative set was usually required of an apprentice to make journeyman status in the old guild system); but Buffalo and Champion and a heck of a lot of other companies 100 years ago seemed to think that a smith would be willing to buy tools shoot look at the 1906 Sears Catalog!

[HWooldridge]

Machinery's Handbook has the standard on rivet heads. A 3/8 shank buttonhead (round) has a .684 diameter head. I make my sets with a ball end mill. The struck top piece is a bar of tool steel chucked in the lathe and machined. Bottom sets are flat pieces of steel that I put in the vertical mill and treat the same way. In practice, the bottom block is put on the anvil (or other suitable support), the work laid on top with rivet in place, shank heated with a torch, initial upset done with a hammer and the final head finished with the top set.

Without access to machine tools, you can easily grind a punch to the right radius and hot punch a blank to give the correct radius. It doesn't have to be exact for most work but looks better if you are using factory rivets and want to duplicate the head on the upset end.

[Ron Hicks]

Thanks Guys
Ill make a punch to make them.
Im riveting tongs that Im working on , I think these will be my first good ones.
The others were made out of to lite weight of stock. I made the bits from 3/4 sq. & forged welded on the reins- Flat bit tongs.
My next tongs will be Chain Tongs hope they turn out - my last try looked good but not heavy enough.

Thanks for all the help
Ron

[Ron Hicks]

Just something I found
some might like it
The Rivet and Power Riveters. The American Blacksmith. Blacksmith Arts. Blacksmith.

[Sam Salvati]

I am gonna make a rounding rivet head maker for my air hammer, as well as a bottom set tool.

[Glenn]

You may want to look at BP0276 Rivet Header Helper.

[JAllcorn]

My hardware shop carries 3/8x1" rivets, I forget the price, maybe 10 to 25 cents each. I make most of my tongs for 2 reasons. (I don't usually make rivets, but I have been guilty of using a bolt... sorta hate to admit that in this audience.)

1. Some of my tongs are specialized, i.e. to hold a specific size piece of metal (made a pair yesterday to hold a 2-1/8" x 5/8" bar 8' long with a rounded decorative top) from 3/4 sucker rod.
2. I need the practice. You should see what I made a few years ago compared to what I make now. Even I can see that I am improving-even if slowly!!!