I hope that I have placed this in the correct forum.

I have a 4.25 x 29" round bar that I have spark tested. It seems to be medium high carbon and is hard as heck to grind. Bought at scrap yard for 25 cents/pound 18 months ago. I cut enough off the original length to get the 29" leftover. Cut it with a hand powered hacksaw. After much thought, I decided to mount it in a block of concrete. The photos explain more than I can write here ... cutting, and adding a piece to help prevent the bar from turning while being hit ... the plate I attached is held on with all-thread rod bolted through a 1/2" plate. The all-thread tends to bite into the steel bar (not much, but enough) to help keep the plate in place - the concrete will also help the plate remain where I put it ... plate will be near the bottom of the bar once it is set. More in next posting.

So, I cut the bar the cheap the way and it took several hours over several days ... actually had to cut both ends as this was a piece that was flame cut from a longer bar. Once I had my "stabilizer" in place I cut some old cement forming plywood to make a box that is approx 12 x 12 x 18" as a form for my base. I placed two cross pieces of 5/8" rebar and various other pieces of smaller rebar to provide some internal strength (no photo of that). I set the bar onto 1/2" plywood with a large plastic bag on it. No bottom to the base - you see what I did in the photos. Also set into the box two 5/8" pieces rebar bent to reach from the bottom of the base to sitck up above top of concrete to allow for lifting points and perhaps metal bending points. The two through rods were left about 3" proud of the sides for more lifting choices and/or bending points. The bar weighs approx 120"

Now comes the work - I mixed a little over 3 60# bags of cement and poured it into the form. Mixed everything just a little wet to allow the old man to work slower. After three days I knocked the form off and have been waiting for this thing to get dry ... won't hit it until it has set for at least 30 days. With the forms off the block/base has no external attachments to act as a bottom or sides. It's just a concrete block. I will "finish" this by grinding the tabs on the through bars so that they aren't spear points. And I will grind the upper edges of the upright handles to allow them to be struck if needed and not leave grooves in the hot metal. I left the top of the block unfinished to allow for a rough surface thereby making it hard for items I lay on it to roll away.

This is one way to create a heavy alternate to a regular anvil - weighs about 300# as it sets. Seems to be drying nicely, no cracks. My intention is to paint the block/base a flat black. No paint on the bar. This set up allows me to have a heavy, stable working/striking surface. Comments are always welcome ... more once I get it finished.

That looks horrible. You should send it to me for proper disposal!



Seriously, though, that's going to make a very good anvil. The only problem I see is running a shin into that rebar sticking out the sides.

I was actually thinking about making a cement stand for my anvil so I appreciate you showing the steps. I wouldn't have thought it would take three bags of mix! Wonder how much you could thin that down by dropping in some brick/block pieces. Seem to remember somewhere that you could use broken cinder blocks for no more than 40% of the pour, but that was for patios and the like.

VaughnT
Probably most any added material will work - more rebar, chunks of concrete, etc. The rebar sticking out the sides is actually about 3" long - with my toes against the block they won't touch the shins. They aren't necessary of course, just something I thought I would try. Can always cut them off if they offend in any way The cement as bagged is about 5% rock and the rest is the portland cement, etc. This set up has different structural needs than say a sidewalk or a pillar supporting weight. Almost all of the force used to strike with will go downward. If you could see the bottom of the base you would see that the base of the round bar is flush with the base of concrete block. The block provides a suitable base that won't move much ... the 120# anvil is heavy enough alone to strike against - supposedly works like an London pattern anvil of 3 times the weight of the steel round.

Vaughn beat me to the send that scrap to me comment (just about right for a tire power hammer anvil) LOL... It should serve you well.

As far as the re-bar stobs...walking straight into them wouldn't be my worry "walking BY" them could be dangerous... get a couple of short pieces of 4x4 or double 2x4's and drill holes slightly smaller than the re-bar size and drive them onto those stobs to protect your shins. Use 4x4's and drill holes in them for hammer racks

I like that you can bust the concrete off later for re-purposing the post. I like that the post goes to the ground. I don't like the rebar sticking out the side, and see that grabbing a leg and hurting.

Phil

you can always cap them with tennis balls if you want a quick fix

That looks horrible. You should send it to me for proper disposal!



Seriously, though, that's going to make a very good anvil. The only problem I see is running a shin into that rebar sticking out the sides.

I was actually thinking about making a cement stand for my anvil so I appreciate you showing the steps. I wouldn't have thought it would take three bags of mix! Wonder how much you could thin that down by dropping in some brick/block pieces. Seem to remember somewhere that you could use broken cinder blocks for no more than 40% of the pour, but that was for patios and the like.

Here's alink to a previous thread about a standard concrete anvil stand - hope it helps you!
Tim

http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/21414-weekend-project-anvil-stands/page__fromsearch__1

Tim, I'd like to see how this works out for you. I think it looks like a great setup. :wub: