FreedomForge Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 I've been making some different things lately that i don't want to leave raw or cover in paint so I have been heating different colors in. I have been using a propane torch with mixed reviews. I have an OA torch with only a cutting tip and that was a fail. I only covered it in soot. What am I doing wrong? My first guess is that I need a rosebud tip. Is it worth burning the torch or should I stick with the propane and stop fighting the learning curve? Any other tips would be helpful. I have seen other guys get some great colors up that are very bright mine are there but dont stand out like I would like. Would it help to polish it up first? Most of the art is with old horseshoes. They are clean but not shining. Also if anyone has pictures that would be great. I would love to get some ideas. Thanks, Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 An OA torch should work fine. Soot indicates a very rich flame - like little or no oxygen. Polishing helps and you have to be patient with the flame; if you get in a hurry, the colors will run too fast and you'll have to repolish and start over. By "polish", I basically mean sandblast followed by wire wheel - you can bring to a higher polish but it's much more work for less results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreedomForge Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 Thanks for the info. I'm sure changing the tip would help. I would feel better anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rthibeau Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 If you are talking about having the heat treat colors remain on the steel as vibrant as possible....you have to quench in an oil (or water for low carbon) that will not leave much residue. For instance, if you quench in used motor oil, by the time you get that gunk off the steel, you've lost any colors. If you quench in say peanut oil, you'll have the colors as bright as they will be as long as you don't wire brush them. You don't need a rosebud tip on the torch...any welding tip will do...just be careful how and long you apply the heat. I've got hammers that have the colors on them, some more brilliant than others. Oh....and the more the grade of steel will take a polish....the brighter the colors will be. In my gallery on IFI I posted some things to show heat treat colors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 You don't have to quench in any fluid if the color is for decoration - just allow to air cool. Wd40 is OK for protection but clear urethane works well also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rthibeau Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 depends on the grade of steel how much color there actually will be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 I think what Rt means is not to quench for heat treat quality but to stop a color at a given point. Richard, is that accurate? Also, a clear coat after you get the desired colors, helps brighten them some... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 I have brazed and heated with a cutting torch. No big deal, just bulky. Check your gauges and your mix, whether cutting, welding or heating the flame looks about the same. (till you hit the oxy for cutting) What HW fails to mention is for air cooling an art piece (or a tool) the colors will still run after the heat source is removed, so work slowly, reheating is easier than buffing it out again. If you don't like the color you can just buff it off and try again. Having it air cool may introduce a random element that is very pleasing. You can also run colors by heating a block (it can be shaped) and pressing the block to the part to transfer heat more gently, and without using the torch. Just heat the block to dull red (or a bit hotter, or cooler) and go for it. Reheat as needed. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkunkler Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 You can get some interesting coloring and patterns with this method. First get a clean, bare steel surface by sanding or other methods. Wet metal with water and sprinkle with salt, I prefer the patterns from coarse salt or rock salt. Heat with a propane torch until you see the colors you want and quench in water. Rinse off all the salt, dry and apply oil or clear finish immediatly before it rusts. The sample in the photo was done with fine grain salt, I didn't have any rock salt on hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 You can get some interesting coloring and patterns with this method. First get a clean, bare steel surface by sanding or other methods. Wet metal with water and sprinkle with salt, I prefer the patterns from coarse salt or rock salt. Heat with a propane torch until you see the colors you want and quench in water. Rinse off all the salt, dry and apply oil or clear finish immediatly before it rusts. The sample in the photo was done with fine grain salt, I didn't have any rock salt on hand. That is very interesting looking. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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