Hunter Douglas Martin Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Well I'm at it again! Got my 1095 from Texas Knife a few days ago and pretty much immediately jumped into a new knife. This knife is designed to be an all around good cutter. Thin tapered blade with a thin hard edge. I'm thinking I may do a simple wood core with a leather wrap for the handle? Anyway here it is so far: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunter Douglas Martin Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 Shape is finished, handle is being glued on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunter Douglas Martin Posted January 23, 2012 Author Share Posted January 23, 2012 Woo! Almost done with the handle, just have to wait for the stain to cure and to finish. I need a buffer and compound which I'll likely acquire today so I can shine the blade Anyway here are some updated pics: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Paul Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Very nice. No rivets though? What adhesive do you use that is strong enough. I have not found one yet, that's the only reason I'm asking. I sure would like to have something that good to use Nice work too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunter Douglas Martin Posted January 23, 2012 Author Share Posted January 23, 2012 Thank you! I use gorilla epoxy which is about as strong as gravity 0.o I've tried breaking wood to metal bonds with gorilla epoxy before and it's a whole lot like trying to pry Angelina Jolie from Brad Pitt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Paul Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Haha, Ive seen some people use that. I'll have to give it a shot and see how it works out for me. Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metal99 Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 Next one you make like that you should try out the hidden pins, use some wood dowl as the hidden pins. It adds alot of strength to the scales compared to just the glue. Thing with epoxy is it gets broken down by oxygen over time. Handles are usually not glued on they are pinned in some way and the glue is used as a moisture sealer for the most part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwisatz Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 That cutter looks like its a “ToMachete” . With the last 30% so much wider I bet it would be able thrown like a Tomahawk and able to cut like a Machete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmccustomknives Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 I tried the gorilla stuff when I first started, After time the handles would work loose so I started using 5 min 2 part expoxy. Even still, it's good to use rivots. I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 I need to warn you against the fast setting epoxy. The 5 minutes stuff tends to fail about in about 5 years. Use the normal Epoxy it lasts much longer. You spent this much time to make it, so give yourself some respect and not get in a rush to finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmccustomknives Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 I've got a boot knife That I've been haulin around for several years, as of yet I've had no sign of failure. I did try the slow set stuff, It wouldn't harden at all. I don't know if it is just the heat and humidity around here or wha,t I've bought it twice with the same results. I would rather use the slower stuff, I don't like being rushed. What brand do you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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