Seems like I'm always asking you folks for help and its always much appreciated.
So much to learn and so little time.

I'd like the capability to thread pintles and make a matching nut.

Would this Grainger set be the ticket: http://www.grainger....PZ41?Pid=search
The set is made from high carbon steel, not high speed steel and don't know if there is a difference.

I guess the next tool would be some sort of swage to form the blank to the correct size for threading.

thanks,
Allen

I have always been satisfied with products from Grainger AND if you are a member of ABANA you can get a discount!

Toward the end of this episode of The Woodright's Shop Peter Ross shows Roy how to use a 100+ year old screwplate and tapered tap to form the threads on the shank of a pintle and the nut.

http://video.pbs.org/video/1772044886/

I like the little giant die sets made by greenfield tap and die. They are super expensive new but they can be had used for a fraction of the cost. They are adjustable and resharpenable. They are very high quality tools and were originally designed for blacksmiths. You can often find them on E-bay used.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Antique-Greenfield-Little-Giant-5-Tap-Die-Set-/380365889916?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item588f92e17c

I would not recommend buying a set of taps and dies especially a made in China set. I am a big believer in buying the taps and dies that you need. I would buy the wrenches and taps and dies you need. Most sets I see in peoples shops have a bunch of unused (probably rusted) taps and dies and the sizes that they need and use are missing because they are broken or worn out as the taps in sets are often lower quality. Taps are available as taper, plug and bottoming. Taper are better for starting a thread especially if you are tapping by hand. Bottoming taps are for tapping into the bottom of a blind hole. Taper are mid way between the two. Taps are something that it is worth buying high quality, a dull tap is far more likely to break. Removing a broken tap from something you have spent quite a bit of time forging is not something you want to have to do.

Wow, some of those older Greenfield LG screw plate die sets are pricey.
I'm an ABANA member and will remember to get the discount.

Cool video. The tool that Peter Ross used looks like just the ticket but you probably won't find too many of those around anymore.
Is there really a big difference in the look of the threads between a modern die and his old screwplate?

John, maybe that is the way to go. 5/8, 3/4 and 1" to start?

Actually the screwplates are pretty easy to find on ebay and sometimes the prices aren't that bad. The taps are a bit more scarce. I just bid (and lost) on a lot of 7 pieces from 20 to 13 pitch that went for just over $70.00.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170739739280?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

This set goes from 32, 26, 20, and 16.

Fellas, thank you for the excellent information. The more time goes on, the more I learn how much I do not know. I have always in the past bought taps and dies individually. A few years ago I bought a small set from #10 to 1/2 nc and nf. This set serves to fill the voids I had occasionally. These issues are really not what the originally posted thread was about. Thank you all for the information (and video Yance).

Wow, some of those older Greenfield LG screw plate die sets are pricey.
I'm an ABANA member and will remember to get the discount.

Cool video. The tool that Peter Ross used looks like just the ticket but you probably won't find too many of those around anymore.
Is there really a big difference in the look of the threads between a modern die and his old screwplate?

John, maybe that is the way to go. 5/8, 3/4 and 1" to start?

3/4" and 1" pintles are pretty heavy pintles what are you hanging from them? I bend some 1" pintles for a fencing and fencing component manufacturer and the hinge part on them is turned down to 5/8 These are far heavier than most of their competitors pintles and are for big steel chainlink gates. The shank Peter is threading is only about 1/2" dia. The price for taps and dies goes up rapidly once you get bigger than 1/2"

I'm not making anything that large currently.
Since I'm looking for larger dies figured I'd go up to 3/4" or so right away and then I'd have it.

I would echo to buy the sizes needed in the best quality you can afford. Then use a high grade tap lube when tapping and thread cutting. For mild steel, I have found the best to be "Tap Heavy" from Master Chemical Co.
I have found that American Made HSS are way better than any Chinese made taps and dies.