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I Forge Iron

How Much Temper Did I Get?

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If you went with charcoal or coal for just a quickey forge
You could stack bricks around the flue and use a pipe to get the air in the fire
for the air supply you could use a hair dryer duct taped to the end of the pipe.
Just prop it on something so the pipe angles down in the fire.
This would be like a side draft- if it comes in from the bottom its a bottom draft.
this is a side draft
With gas forge you need to build a burner , insulted shell .

Glenn made a forge called the 55 Forge its a bottom draft (BP0133), and another that was side draft (BP0238). Any how easy to make.
gc01.jpg 4sd301.jpg

You can use other things for flue some even use corn.

Don't use anything galvanized fume fever is bad news.

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Ok, I took my plasma cutter and cut out a propane cylinder. I cut it and left like a 5" side wall and left some that will act as a hood. I seen some with a hood around and over them. Now my question is this, can a propane burner like from a hotwater heater be used? If so, does forced air make propane hotter? If so how do you mix the air to the propane. I am gonna find a way to mount to a stand then I'll post pics to get input where to go from there. Cooter

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Cooter you already have been hangin around here way too long. We are gonna get you burnin coal yet. What you have there is the makins of a good little coal forge, plenty big enough to be straightening out garage door springs as posted above. You could also cut your blanks out with your plasma from flat stock, use the forge to hammer some square or round points (saves a lot of grinding) ,cut your barbs with a chisel, and heat treat.

If you're ready to take the plunge n burn some coal say the word and someone here will get you going.

If you want to burn gas you're gonna need another tank and you are gonna have to buy some things, castable or rammable refractory or some ceramic fiber refractory blanket.

We can probably get you going for free (except coal or charcoal) out of stuff in your junkpile and a good blower.

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Attached is a photo of the grate on the 55 Forge (BP0133). It is a piece of 2" pipe with 2 pieces of 1/4" rod to keep the coal from falling through. It works very well for me. The forge works equally will using lump coal or coal fines (dust). Just dampen the fines and they clump together, when they coke up they become a solid mass.

I would suggest a larger air inlet, and a chimney for you forge. Please take lots of photos as I would like to use your idea for a Blueprint. But then I like solid fuel

If you want to use a gasser, there are several Blueprints on IForgeIron.com that will show you how to build your own.

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What you got going there would be better as a coal or charcoal forge not a
gas forge.
Look at this forge on ebay it is a coal or charcoal ( solid fule)
you can see and get the idea.
eBay: 20" Blacksmith Steel Coal Forge Pan & NEW Blower N/R (item 250083725196 end time Feb-18-07 19:30:21 PST)
How to Build a Coal Forge Plans

Now if you want to do a gas forge here is a few things to look at
lot more to a gas forge and a burner.
Gas Forge Burner plan and links
HABA Houston Area Blacksmith's Association Sept 2003
Forge Construction


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A couple of questions. The inlet(air) hole in the bottom,,,is bigger better? It has about a 1" hole without me doing anything,,, not a problem for me to open it up to 2" , if need be. Also, does it matter where, in my stand up pipe I put the damper or closer flap?, and is that used mainly for cleaning out , and not to control air flow? I think I am gonna go with solid fuel, but it will have to be charcoal, I don't know where theres any coal around here. Also where can I get the clay to line the bottom of the forge? I do need to line it right??? Thanx, Cooter

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I would suggest that you try the 1" pipe you now have and see how it works on your forge. Raise the air pipe an 1 to 1-1/2" so from the bottom of the forge and the ash will insulate the metal bottom of the forge from the heat. The "T" in the air line is to allow air to come in through the branch while any ash falls straight down the pipe. The flap on the bottom is to easily cover and uncover the hole, and to clean the ash out as it builds up. You need to adjust the air prior to entering the "T", and there are many ways to do this, with a damper, covering the fan intake, etc

Don't think of this as a one time build, but think of it as a place to start, modify and make it better, till you develop the forge that works well for you and the size material you are forging.

Keep asking questions as many here have built forges, and have figured out what works for them. Gather a bunch of ideas and use what works for you.

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Hardening and Tempering is 2 different things
Hardening is getting the steel hard & brittle( like a file or glass)
Tempering is taking some of the hardness out so the steel is tougher and not as brittle.

Using color to tell temp. is kind of tough( what looks red in full sun might look orange in the shade or even brighter in a dark shop.)
You need a magnet - heat the steel and check it with the magnet, when the steel gets into the dark red start checking it with the magnet.As the heat climbs the color get brighter - when the magnet just stops sticking to the
steel its called non magnetic (on the Tempil Guide Ac1 on heating &Ar1 on cooling).
Depending on what steel temp. is different but with a magnet when it becomes non magnetic thats the temp. to Harden at.
Non magnetic & hotter is where you want to forge also(depends on the steel)

Theres way more to it than this but will get you started
Look over the Key To Steel link I gave you on heat treating + lots of info. that will help you.

Maybe others can explaine it better and will post
[ABANA] Tempil Guide
Link removed at the request of anvilfire
KEY to STEEL :: Articles

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