Making rivets from scratch

[Don A]

I need some practical advice on making rivets.

I am starting with 7/16" round stock. The shank needs to be about 2" long.

I have a coal forge and a torch.

Remember, 7/16" is pretty thick. I'm using a clamp-type header in my vise, but I can't seem to set a sharp shoulder on the head.

I want this:

But keep getting this:

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

[Timothy Miller]

Post a pic of the rivet clamp and the result.

[peacock]

If you are useing a top tool to form the head you need to let more stock stick above the header. Appears to be short on volume to finish the head.

[Don A]

I don't have a picture of my header, but it is simply two pieces of 1 x .5" with a small piece of angle welded to the back of each. It was drilled through for two index pins running horizontally, then vised up and drillled through the seam with a 7/16" bit.

I think I have plenty of volume, but I have not tried a top tool. I have been round-heading them with a ball pien.

Perhaps the top tool would be the answer to my problem.

[Rich Hale]

I agree with the volume being shy, but also think it may resolve itself when you use the rivet and work on the other end. To make both ends look right I use a bottom die and a top tool for final setting. If the piece calls for a hammered texture lI will do that after the rivet is set and use a ball pein on show side with bottom in die.

[Drewed]

I have found that if you make the heading tool slightly convex that helps too. Sort of under cuts the rivet head slightly

[John B]

I don't have a picture of my header, but it is simply two pieces of 1 x .5" with a small piece of angle welded to the back of each. It was drilled through for two index pins running horizontally, then vised up and drillled through the seam with a 7/16" bit.

I think I have plenty of volume, but I have not tried a top tool. I have been round-heading them with a ball pien.

Perhaps the top tool would be the answer to my problem.

I would suggest a few issues here, Rivet material and hole size in your clamp being the same, may not give a good enough grip to stop the workpiece sliding down slightly as you form the head,

Size of material would lead to coolng where corner is being formed, You may have to take a couple more heats.

If you are going to use a rivet snap to form the head as opposed to a free hammer finish, then the amount of material left above the clamp is critical, if not enough is allowed then as Rich and Peacock said you will get that effect.

Having said all that, if you are going to put them in situ Hot and finish rivet, then that discrepency should make no difference.

If you want to make them as per your first drawing, then a snap and a monkey tool could be used as a further operation

A small radius under the rivet head is not a bad thing.

[Don A]

Thank you all for the advice.

Let's go put it to use.

[Timothy Miller]

The problem is your peen. The radius wont allow you to hit the bottom edge of the rivet head because the bottom of the peen is hitting the tool and not the steel. If you use a square faced hammer you should be able to get closer to the bottom edge of the rivet head. A top tool with an appropriately cupped face will work also as said above.