Old N Rusty Posted October 8, 2011 Posted October 8, 2011 I have an electric die grinder, it has a 1/4" collet. The carbide bits that are sold for this grinder are expensive and very fragile. They also are bad about "loading up" with soft metal, especially aluminum. It is not possible to clean them after this happens. For the times when I have to grind aluminum, I chuck a 1/4" "stubbie" drill bit in the grinder. this works well, It does not "load up", cuts fast, and is so much cheaper than a carbide bit. Actually this is the only use I have found for those drill bits in the "any tool for a dollar" bin at the hardware store, Those bits COIL UP when used to drill steel. They work very well in this app. M.I.G. splatter is easily removed with this tool, and anyone who has seen a carbide bit jam and break will appreciate the savings. Quote
CurlyGeorge Posted October 8, 2011 Posted October 8, 2011 Hey Dan. When I was welding aluminum truck tanks we used the carbide bits in an end grinder. We called them a back gouge bit. Aluminum does have a habit of loading up. We always took a small screw driver and put it in the area between the teeth and tapped with a small hammer. Took time, but it would break the aluminum free and clear the teeth. It can be a pain in the bisquits. But it worked and was a lot cheaper than constantly replacing cutters. Hope this helps. :) Quote
DennisG Posted October 8, 2011 Posted October 8, 2011 there are bits for die grinding alum. the cuting of the bit is a VERY pronounced 3 or 4 ridges.... looking them up now...... http://www.carbidebur.com/nfburs/nfsa.htm I use the cone shaped ones. spend a few extra $$ on the good ones and they will last longer and it seems the "heads" don't come off too easily. Quote
macbruce Posted October 8, 2011 Posted October 8, 2011 Thank's Dennis, I've had several of these cluttering my little burr box forever. I never used em cause I never knew what the heck they were good for....... I wonder if lubing the burr with paraffin would help with the loading?? Quote
Fosterob Posted October 8, 2011 Posted October 8, 2011 Lube does a great job of keeping burrs from loading up. I use a can (soup size) with about an inch of oil in the bottom dip in the bur, pull it out of the oil and trigger the tool to fling off the excess oil inside the can. Repeat as needed. Single cut burrs work better on aluminum but the double cuts will not load up as bad with lube. Rob Quote
Timothy Miller Posted October 8, 2011 Posted October 8, 2011 Years ago I had the opportunity to buy them at 2 bucks each at a close out I should have bought the whole box. You need to buy the ones for aluminum if you want to cut aluminum wax helps but only for a short wile. I know they are expensive but I just sent out a bunch to Boggs tool http://www.boggstool.../sharpening.htm to be resharpened and they came back as good as new for less than a buck each. They also sell them new at good prices. I highly recommend Boggs tools. Also the air tool works better than the electric die grinder. Quote
ironwolfforgeca Posted October 8, 2011 Posted October 8, 2011 They make a wax like stuff comes in a tube just for this problim works great can't rember the name though Quote
Fosterob Posted October 8, 2011 Posted October 8, 2011 You thinking of slickstick sold by hougen for their magnetic drills? Quote
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted October 8, 2011 Posted October 8, 2011 Friend of mine used to bring me piles of carbide burrs in different configurations. Place he worked at used them on titanium for a couple hours and tossed em! Still worked fine on steel. Same with diamond abrasives from the glass blowers. Quote
Old N Rusty Posted October 8, 2011 Author Posted October 8, 2011 Air tools, hmm I got several cheap air die grinders that spit in my face, and only turn a little bit faster than me electric, but being an old cheapy i just cant see running a 3 fase 5 hp . motor to fill a tank that is huge! ,,,, when I have the job did in a very short time with a 1/4 hp ? motor in my hand electric die grinder. I currently have a Dewalt it is what I am using till I can get the cord replaced on my Milwaukee paddle switch die grinder. The Dewalt is a lot more fat and uncomfortable, compared to Milwaukee. If you use a die grinder you will get a "needle " in the skin of your hand for easy removal drag a rasor sharp knife or box cutter ACROSS your skin where the offending bur is. The hair edge of any sharp blade drags it right out. The job I have now calls for clean welds and wirebrush finish. On scroll work, using a bit with parallel sides like a drill bit works best for scale and M.I.G. B.B.'S cleaning. I make a tank of air when dust blowing is in the days job plan, that don't happen too often. Quote
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