Very close indeed! That would explain the clutch bar design for the idler. Right now I have a counter weight on the left where the treadle attachment should go... but because I'm not able to run an overhead belt I think this is my only option but good to know how it "should" be, thanks a bunch!

Oh and I need a new top die badly, the thing is half the width of the lower and the shape is unpleasant, dressed the front and rear corners with the grinder so I dont get the severe chops in the work.

Looks like it definitely is the Hillbert - Freiberg hammer doesn't it?

I think the clincher is the perpendicular dovetails, whats the year range on the Hillbert?


more info! this is the 15lb in photo, Ill have to weigh mine tomorrow if I can find a scale http://books.google.com/books?id=rg4AAAAAMAAJ&pg=PA1367&lpg=PA1367&dq=Hilbert+-+Freiberg+hammer&source=bl&ots=jeHyzDRnBe&sig=gCJPjNgoZ4u9E6dgO_h7clA9gUo&hl=en&ei=8V6CToz9Ooe50QGe6KCUAQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CB0Q6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=Hilbert%20-%20Freiberg%20hammer&f=false

I suspect yours is a 50 pound.

I got my flat belt from this place and it is holding up nice I have many hours on it with no problems
http://www.hitnmiss.com/index.html
With the slack belt system you need to have the idler set on the driven side (The picture that Grant posted the hammer would be going clockwise rotation) This maybe why it seems like it runs better going one way- it should not matter which way it runs. You should be able to tell which way it was running by a visual inspection of the babbit main bearings.

I got my flat belt from this place and it is holding up nice I have many hours on it with no problems
http://www.hitnmiss.com/index.html
With the slack belt system you need to have the idler set on the driven side (The picture that Grant posted the hammer would be going clockwise rotation) This maybe why it seems like it runs better going one way- it should not matter which way it runs. You should be able to tell which way it was running by a visual inspection of the babbit main bearings.

"Driven side" sounds wrong to me, not sure what that means. Just the terminology, from the description you're right. I usually call it the "slack side" as the motor pulls the other side tight.

well the first problem I see is that it runs better one direction than the other.. but this motor is not reversible.. so I gotta keep that in mind for the next one, if only my house had 3phase lol!

If you are only running one, or two Hp motor, get a VFD to convert the single phase input to 3 phase output to the motor... The lower Hp VFD's are reasonable in price....Likely cheaper than a rotary phase converter for a lower Hp motor.
My 2"x72" belt grinder has a 1.5Hp 3 phase motor run through a KBAC VFD with a reversing switch too.....

yea most vfd's I see online are around the price of a new 2hp motor... I'm totally broke right now, negative actually. The plan is a used or cheap 1hp motor that I can reverse just gotta find one thanks though its good to have options!

You could modify the mount for your motor so that it faces the other way then you have reverse rotation.
Thanks for clearing that up for me Grant, that is how it was explained to me by my brother. I have seen people try to put the idler on the wrong side and it does not work well

I bought my replacement belt for McMaster carr http://www.mcmaster.com/?orderview=new#flat-belts/=e9dvn2

I dont see any flat belt pulleys with a 2.5"+ bore size for my belt, any other sites you know of?

If you need a pulley these guys will make whatever size you need
http://www.paperpulleys.com/pages/home.html

I dont see any flat belt pulleys with a 2.5"+ bore size for my belt, any other sites you know of?

Make one out of wood. A holesaw and some plywood works well, I like 1 1/8 thick and each disc has a center hole to pilot your bore size drill. Remember holesaws are sized for the hole not the disc so you should get something like 2 5/8 or 2 3/4 to end up near the 2 1/2 you want. Also important to have idle pulley on the non driven or slack side as stated earlier.
Rob

I like the wood idea, and by bore I was talking about the width of the pulley where the belt will lay as shown on pulley websites, so thats just a matter of stacking enough wood. The diameter I would put at about 4" to match the vbelt pulley thats in use atm. My only question is will the wood slot for the key hold up to the rotational torque?

If I gather this correctly I have the idler in the correct position for my rotation as its inside the belt pulling out, leaving the motor pulling from hammer > motor > idler

Measure how many amps the motor pulling under full load (FLA) . FLA is typically stamped on the motor tag. Or if you can't put your hand on it after running it for say 5-10 min you're overheating.......If you can smell it or see smoke it's a no brainer.............The motor could be overheating because the machine is not running freely or isn't lubed...........

Don't be fooled by running it without work in it. Hot iron soaks up the energy of the blow. Pounding on nothing just compresses the spring and returns some of the energy.

The 1/2hp did great yesterday for about an hour working leaf springs, one of my inlaws thinks he has a 3/4horse thats reversible hes going to try to find for me so thats even better. So far so good! Oh and speaking of leaf springs, they seem to travel ( rotate) a bit while Im working, only slide about .25 inch max but just to be safe going to put some pipe clamps in them just to make sure they stay put, how common is this?

I like the wood idea, and by bore I was talking about the width of the pulley where the belt will lay as shown on pulley websites, so thats just a matter of stacking enough wood. The diameter I would put at about 4" to match the vbelt pulley thats in use atm. My only question is will the wood slot for the key hold up to the rotational torque?

If I gather this correctly I have the idler in the correct position for my rotation as its inside the belt pulling out, leaving the motor pulling from hammer > motor > idler

The wood pulley would have a metal cap on at least one end and either keyed or welded to shaft, If I was to make it. Also you will get more contact on your belt if you run the idle pulley on the outside of the belt. May give you better power transmission due to less slippage.
Rob

The idler needs to be on the outside pushing in to work best, the rotation is right

The idler needs to be on the outside pushing in to work best, the rotation is right

I agree. You want to force the belt to wrap further around the pulley.

wont be a problem once I get a longer belt and flat pulley, but for now I dont have the length/space to make an outside idler work. The other issue is working a proper treadle around the mass of welded I-beam, not sure how this was used all bodged up like it is but as soon as my current show ends and I have a few bucks to throw around its getting an overhaul!

this looks dam close to your hammer and he has a nifty set up for doing a over head belt power feed
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACKSMITH-FORGING-POWER-TRIP-HAMMER-ANVIL-TOOLS-/120788981867?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1f95986b

The " Novelty Ironworks" Hammer on Ebay is interesting. I just sold one last year. The Novelty Iron works folks only made 300 of these hammers. Their claim to fame was that the company made and installed the iron sides on "Old Ironsides".
The power hammers were meant to be set up with four pieces of pipe for the stand. They were made to be portable so they could be packed in to mining camps on the back of a mule. Odd: With only three hundred made, I know of three here in Western Oregon.

The " Novelty Ironworks" Hammer on Ebay is interesting. I just sold one last year. The Novelty Iron works folks only made 300 of these hammers. Their claim to fame was that the company made and installed the iron sides on "Old Ironsides".
The power hammers were meant to be set up with four pieces of pipe for the stand. They were made to be portable so they could be packed in to mining camps on the back of a mule. Odd: With only three hundred made, I know of three here in Western Oregon.

Sorry Eric, that story is incorrect. The U.S.S. Constitution (Old Ironsides) was planked with eastern live oak and got her nick name when English cannon ball bounced off her in the War of 1812..........fifty years before iron-clad ships. I had the honor of outfitting the crew that re-calked her around fifteen years ago.

Must have been the first ironclad ship whichever it was. Read that in a brief "bio" of Novelty Iron Works last year. Let's Google it and see which ship it was..