Borntoolate Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 I purchased a Roger Lorance Firepot according to advice in another thread. So now I need to either modify my current coal forge or build a whole new one. I am open to both. I do not have a smithy exactly so my forge needs to be mobile. My 275# anvil is just inside of some swinging doors that I open and roll out the forge and blower to a pad just outside with no current roof. What do's and don't do you folks have around building a forge? Here are some pics of the firepot from some other post. Hopefully this link works right.http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CBkQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.iforgeiron.com%2Ftopic%2F13272-roger-lorance-firepot-swage-blocks%2F&rct=j&q=roger%20lorance%20firepot%20pic&ei=Ust3TrT8I4qEsgKRksW3CA&usg=AFQjCNEXu_xhK6AfTifaic3Gc9KdQbjXQA&cad=rja First off I have included some pics of my current forge. It is 2'x2' plate with a break drum mounted flush underneath. So there is no lip extending above the 2x2 plate. With my new firepot there will be about a 1" to 3/4" lip above on each side. I don't really understand the need for this but I guess I can get ok with it. Would you mount the Tuyere dump lever to the front or back? Would you mount the pot off center for any reason? What things would you do differently if you were building YOUR forge today. Anyway, does anyone have any nifty suggestion on how I should redo this. I would even consider making a complete new forge if I had compelling info to do so. I would then sell this one as it has worked for me quite satisfactorily so far and may help someone else get started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drewed Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Ash dump to be located to where ever you stand while cranking the blower. I would loose the three leg design, too tippy in my mind. I would mount the fire pot off center ( front to back ) so you have a little space to rest hot pieces while working on some other part. Big tires roll easier. If you don't go off road ( on the grass ) bike tires would work just fine. Build a fender over them if you are afraid of the hot coals popping them! Add cut-outs to the angle iron on the sides so you can slide long pieces threw the fire. IF you want a level top with the new fire pot, build up the table with the portland cement/ sand mixture. Doing this will also keep the fire from torching the metal and the extra heat mass will help with the fire. OR make "rails" to slide the firepot in from underneath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Einhorn Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 For a 2' by 2' forge table I would suggest mounting the firepot in the center so that you can practice good coal fire management. This means that coal is drawn in from the sides so that the coal turns to coke before it enters the center of the fire. That way you maintain a higher heat, thus heating the metal faster and getting more work done, and you also keep the smoke to a minimum. This is in contrast to throwing green coal onto a fire causing lots of smoke, and less work getting done. By managing the fire by controlling its spread with water you will have areas on the side or sides where you can rest tongs or bar stock. I agree that the sides should be higher with cut outs so that bar stock can be put through the neutral area of the fire and coal is prevented from falling off the sides. For a 2x2' forge table it is too small to have the firepot off-center in my humble opinion. However if you lengthen the table to 2x3 or 2x4 then you can have it off center with the firepot the same distance from one end as it is from both sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 I like a large hearth table so mine is 3x4 with the pot offset to the left side (I am right handed). Room for plenty of coal and tools. A plain steel table (painted) with no mortar will last quite a while because it doesn't trap moisture. A piece of 1/4" plate with the appropriate hole cut out is really all the support needed for a nice hearth. Drop the pot into place, load the table with coal and go to town... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drewed Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 HA! Totally didn't remember that it was only 2x2! Keep it centered for that size table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borntoolate Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 Wow, lots of advice already. Keep it coming. These are just the kinds of ideas I need to ponder in order to redo this or make do. I just don't have the time on tools to know what to even consider. Started Coal "forgery" in January 2011. Gas forge just last year about this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borntoolate Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 Drewed . "I would mount the fire pot off center ( front to back ) so you have a little space to rest hot pieces while working on some other part." Meaning more room in front or more in back? I think you mean more room in front but just clarifying... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Einhorn Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 Drewed . "I would mount the fire pot off center ( front to back ….t." Meaning more room in front or more in back? I think you mean more room in front but just clarifying... His correction: HA! Totally didn't remember that it was only 2x2! Keep it centered for that size table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Einhorn Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 Here is an example of an older Buffalo (brand)semi-portable forge that is a good example of a 2' by 2' forge. Note the side cutouts, the height of the sides, and the centered firepot. It is by the same company that made Buffalo blowers. If you were to change the design you would lengthen the side as shown in illustration B. Not the side with the air intake, and not the sides with the cutouts. ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borntoolate Posted September 20, 2011 Author Share Posted September 20, 2011 keep in mind that it's a 2x2 foot now but I might change based on input from you guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Einhorn Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 keep in mind that it's a 2x2 foot now but I might change based on input from you guys. It would help if you let us know the size table and materials you are considering. It is like saying, I was considering a pen knife, but I might make another type of knife based on you guys input, so what are the design considerations of making a blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borntoolate Posted September 20, 2011 Author Share Posted September 20, 2011 David and others. It needs to be portable without a lot of tear down or assembly. It gets moved in and out of the back door of my shop based on weather and planned use. So size is more about mobility. Materials could be just about anything that works and is readily available. I have a full woodshop capability but that probably is not all that useful for forge making. I also have a mig welder for assmbly. Cost is not much of a constraint here so I am wide open for any suggestions. I do want to make this myself more or less mostly because I feel like I can get a better product for less money. I am most interested in optimizing functionality. I am hearing folks like to have extra space for tongs and so forth. I can easily add some flip up/down side shelves for this and still be portable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drewed Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 The extra space is not for tongs and such ( tongs go on a rack or tong holder.) The extra space on the forge table to to hold work that is still "hot." Say you are making a candle holder. You might rest the un-quenched, still hot, base there while you work on the drip pan. I did mean more room front, but not on a 2x2. That is pretty small to offset. IF it were me, I would add a flip up shelves off the "front," and cut outs on the sides. I also work off the side of the forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 David and others. It needs to be portable without a lot of tear down or assembly. This is a spot on portable - granthttp://www.blksmth.c...my_portable.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 Kelly, you should just wait until I get there, or give me a call and we can discuss it. Lyle and I just got back from Minnesota. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borntoolate Posted September 21, 2011 Author Share Posted September 21, 2011 A big question I have now is flush mount from underneath or should I drop in mount the firepot which leaves a pretty big ridge around the edge of the pot. This would seem to make raking coke in AND making coke more difficult with the ridge up as opposed to flush from underneath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drewed Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 Your coal will be mounded way above the the lip of the fire pot so it won't make that much difference. My working coal pile tends to be 3x the size of my fire pot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borntoolate Posted September 22, 2011 Author Share Posted September 22, 2011 It may be that I keep too little coal piled around. Sounds like I need to learn more about that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 20090924145532643.pdf (48.84K) Number of downloads: 123 Here are pictures of mine I have been using it for a few years and I like the way it runs with the slide damper you can really get it burning just right. In the long run it is much easer to have the fire pot mounted flush with the top you will always be raking coal into it. why would you always want to contend with a step. Don't over think it the one you have made looks just fine just heat and hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Menard Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 I could never figure out why many people use only 2 wheels on their portable forge rigs. Most are heavy to wheel around wheelbarrow style. Why not 4 swivel wheels of an adequate size so you can easily place it where you want it. My large gas forge stand is set up like this and I have never had it run away on me or even move if I was not moving it. The whole body at rest stays at rest thing. If you have to move it outside to use it at least make it easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borntoolate Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 So here is wher I am so far. It works obviuously since I didn't wait to finish to try it out. Needs more bracing and a way to hold the flip up right ledge up other than a piece of wood and a C-Clamp. Am also working on a tong holder for the left side. Will add a wood shelf below as well. Pull out handles/support also needed for front. The back edge away from the firepot is a tad bit narrow and my edges could have been higher. But 1" steel is what I had. What do you think of the curved corners? I was thinking that would make it easy to rake the coal from the sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borntoolate Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 -_- Ack! My shop is such a mess. Looks like this is going around tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wesley Chambers Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 I could never figure out why many people use only 2 wheels on their portable forge rigs. Most are heavy to wheel around wheelbarrow style. Why not 4 swivel wheels of an adequate size so you can easily place it where you want it. My large gas forge stand is set up like this and I have never had it run away on me or even move if I was not moving it. The whole body at rest stays at rest thing. If you have to move it outside to use it at least make it easy. I agree, or if there is a worry setup a drop wheel rig like the wheeled ladders in lowes. My thoughts anyway something ill try out as soon as I get the shop rebuilt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borntoolate Posted October 16, 2011 Author Share Posted October 16, 2011 yup, and I went with the two wheel rig. I was really wanting my own hand forged wheels with spokes. So there is it. My gas forge has the 4 wheels though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 I have built many portable forges I use old BBQ grills for the base they work real well and when you are done just close the lid. I have even traveled home with the coal still in the grill in the back of the pickup. I cut the bottom of the grill out with a plasma cutter fab up the fire pot to fit in the grill about 2 to 3 inches lower than the lip of the grill most are aluminum so to hold every thing in place I then weld 2 aluminum bars to hold the fire pot in place. You can see one in the background of my profile photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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