Hey, sorry about the no pictures. I just started a rr spike hawk... this is when my thread gets filled with people telling that it won't make an effective blade, right? Look I've heard it all and I know that you mean well but please just stick to the topic. To be honest I agree but I wanted to get a feel for tomahawks, so flattened the blade, and drifted the hole and it came out all right but a bunch of metal was rough and sticking out in the middle. since it's in the eye I can't grind it so I was wondering if a file then sanding would do the trick.

If so where could I find a good file for the job and what kind of sand paper.

Sorry if I'm acting unkind, and please I am open to all critique that doesn't involve the materials used for the hawk.

Thank you for all comments and advice. ^_^

Don't understand why you should have bits of metal sticking out in a hole you have drifted.

Did you punch from both sides and not get the alignment right? This could result in the situation you find yourself in

Filing will work, small half round file suitable for the situation, sorry i am not in the US so cannot recommend a source or brand to purchase Try referring to Filing post in Tools section posted by Frank Turley

If you did drift the eye, you could try reheating the spike, put the drift in and forge it to conform to the drift's shape.

Any hardware store ought to have at least one or two half-round files in its selection, and many carry chainsaw files as well. Some combination of those two -- possibly just the half-round alone -- should answer the mail.

I personally wouldn't bother with sanding the inside of the eye. First, it's not visible when the hawk is handled, and second, a slightly rough surface in there may not be a bad thing.

Spikes aren't that bad for hawks, since the relatively low carbon makes them inherently tough. They just end up being a little delicate, at least for my taste.

A filed surface is OK for the inside of the eye.

As the eye is curved you need a curved file as mentioned a half round is nice but I have managed with just chain saw files.

Die grinders can also work; but I assume as you are starting out in smithing that you won't have one.

Note for a kindling hatchet or just practice throwing, an HC spike hawk quenched in super quench will suffice. It is knives that I don't agree with their use---save for butter knives or cheese knives or letter openers which do not need a good lasting edge!

Thanks for all the advice guys. I think I might even have a file that matches your descriptions. The problem might have occurred because one of my smaller chisels bent over on the chisel guard (luckily it was easily fixed), I had to enlarge the hole before I could pull it out. This might have given it the unevenness. Once again thank you for the advice. ^_^