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Securing a Peter Wright anvil to a log- Will this method be OK?


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Hey all, I just wanted to run this by everyone to see if this is the best (and safest) way to secure my anvil to it's log base.

My anvil has a 1 inch square hole in the bottom about an inch and a half to two inches deep. I was going to drill a similar hole in the stump to place a piece of pipe or something to set the anvil on. (It will not actually be setting on the pipe, but this is just to keep it from drifting off center)
Then theres a similar squared hole going through the base of the anvil left to right, that I was going to make a strap that would slip through and bolt down on either side. Would that be enough? Am I at risk of cracking the anvil be securing it this way?
I've read several suggestions using chains, and staples (and even adheasives) but no one has ever mentioned these holes before, and this being my first anvil, I just figured that's what they were there for.
Thanks for your input. -Jim

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Handling holes don't go very far in. They definitely don't go side to side. The central peg will hole it in place but not quiet it down strapping it firmly done will help keep it from moving and quiet it down.

For my travel anvils I just cut two blocks of wood to match the curve on the base of the sides and nailed them to the stump so the anvil lifts on and off---I have to use a mute in the pritchel hole to quiet them down though.

My big shop anvil is a Fisher and *quiet* so I just have about 4 fence staples hammered most of the way into the stump to keep it from walking. (the ones shaped like "U" and about 1" long---it's over 500 pounds and doesn't need much to keep it in place!)

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Thomas, when you're right, you're right! That hole doesn't go all the way through! I couldn't fit my fat finger in there so I assumed it went all the way for mounting. (Although I can't imagine how they'd be used comfortably for handling!)
I love this site, and this hobby. Not a day has gone by in the past 2 months I haven't learned something.
OK, I'll cut some wood to match the footprint of the anvil and chain it down as i've seen before.

One more thing- the log is nice and heavy and solid (not sure what kind, but the logger friend of the family says it's hardwood) but it has a crack the length of the log about 1/2 inch deep in from one side.
I was thinking I should band it around the top, middle and bottom just to help support it in the coming years. Any tricks or suggestions on what the best way to do this would be?
Thanks again -Jim

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If you strap it done you may not need the blocks.

Handling: think of grabbing the anvil with a 8' long set of tongs that rest on a rotating loop of chain swung from a jib crane. Now think of that set of tongs having the ends bent in and sharpened to fit exactly in the handling holes and then a keeper placed on the reins. Now you can rotate the anvil and swing it closer and farther away as you work it under the steam hammer.

See http://www.anvilfire.com/bookrev/postman/postman4.htm for an example of a different set being used that way

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That is one strong guy in that pic! Imagine doing that for 10 hours a day.

Hey- one more question- Is there a way to tell how old an anvil is? (and please, no "count the rings" jokes!) ;)
My wife's grandfather had this one and she was wondering how old it was, and if it was possibl his father had it before him. The pictures of it can be seen here.
I'm hoping tht G (or C) at the bottom may mean something.

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Very few anvils were actually date stamped (William Foster and some Fishers as I recall) Some have serial numbers that can be interpolated from lists and finally some had changes to their stampings that varied over time.

Anvils In America by Postman pretty much is the current source for dating anvils but for a PW it will be very general.

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For my shop anvil I just made the stand 1/2 in too tall then sat my anvil on it and drew around it with a sharpie removed the anvil and routered out 1/2 in inside my sharpie lines it is stable and I have had no problems with movment of any kind

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