Two part question: If I want to forge a cut-off hardy, what kind of steel should I use? I figure tool steel, but what kind of tool steel? I have a forge but that's about it, my other equipment is very limited.

Part two: Can a chisel be used as a cut-off hardy? I've been using one, but the cut isn't that clean and I'm wondering if one I forge wouldn't be worlds better.

Also, other question I'm tacking onto this one because I've been making too many threads lately: Is a finishing hardy (like a hardy with a flat face that's really smooth and free of dents and whatnot for giving pieces a nice mirror finish) anything more than a flat piece that's been sanded until it's super smooth and has a handle bit to fit into the hardy hole?

Two part question: If I want to forge a cut-off hardy, what kind of steel should I use? I figure tool steel, but what kind of tool steel? I have a forge but that's about it, my other equipment is very limited.

Part two: Can a chisel be used as a cut-off hardy? I've been using one, but the cut isn't that clean and I'm wondering if one I forge wouldn't be worlds better.

Also, other question I'm tacking onto this one because I've been making too many threads lately: Is a finishing hardy (like a hardy with a flat face that's really smooth and free of dents and whatnot for giving pieces a nice mirror finish) anything more than a flat piece that's been sanded until it's super smooth and has a handle bit to fit into the hardy hole?

Part one. Tool steel see Brian Brazeals postings, or you could use a drive shaft or other spring steel type material

Part two. Chisels can be used as cut off tools, but you have to have the right cutting angles, it is advantageous to have a (cut off)hardie, again see Brian Brazeals postings on how to make one.

The finishing 'hardie' is not a hardie, but a flatter (or flattener) and the way to use it is to move it over the workpieces surface, they can be hand held, handled or rodded.



They give a flat smooth finish, but not a mirror finish, for that you will need to use elbow grease and polish the surface.

I put an edge on my hot cut and left it. I did pickle it in vinegar first at least. There are hammer marks and all kinds of ugliness that do not affect its operation. I used 4140.

Phil

I just used an old jack hammer bit/chisel. Works great. What kind of metal is it? I don't know, but it's hard and it works great!! :D

Most, not all jackhammer bits a A-7 or similar air hardening tool steel. This is a fine example.

Most, not all jackhammer bits a A-7 or similar air hardening tool steel. This is a fine example.

A7 is crazy stuff. I have read S7 would make great bits, but people here who have tested them have found they are more along the lines of 1045 or some other nearly 10XX steel because hammer bits are a commodity.

http://www.efunda.co...Title=AISI%20A7

http://cartech.ides.com/datasheet.aspx?i=101&E=114
Phil

Most, not all jackhammer bits a A-7 or similar air hardening tool steel. This is a fine example.

Hmm. Probably not. But they'll do for this purpose.

I made my hot cut hardy from an old log splitting wedge. I also made another one to fit in my vise from a piece off the edge of a road grader blade. Both work just fine for my small needs.

I too forged my hardy (cut off hardy is redundant!---the "hardy" is a tool for cutting off, other tools that use the hardy hole are just that) from a broken jackhammer bit. I found one with the chisel end broken off and just forged the stub of the shaft that was left to fit my anvil's hardy hole. Don't know how good it is---only been using it about 20+ years so far and doubt it's 1/8" shorter from sharpening it.

You might ask around at a local tool rental place and see if they get broken jackhammer bits in---offer to pay scrap rate or make them a hand forged trinket or to for them! (and do remember that as a new smith you don't need 400 pounds of them, just a few will probably last you a long time *ESPECIALLY* if you don't have access to a powerhammer...)

A flatter is a flat surface of a good steel with a shaft the provide both a place to put a handle and a place to strike it. It is generally used with a *smooth* anvil face underneath it to smooth both sides at once. Dress the ends of it so it doesn't leave lines!

I once used a piece of re bar it served me for many years. I have also used a chipper blade. My latest one is from a torsions bar in the Brian Brazeal form took a little getting use to being rounded and not thin enough a little reshaping and it works great.

I got a 4 in long piece of leaf spring from a ford f250, and welded on a shank to fit the anvil, then I just ground the top to a sturdy edge, and its worked fine for me.