wooginator Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 I just picked up my first anvil today, a 120 lb. fisher norris from 1891. Being old, however, it's got some dimples and whatnot in the surface, and my cousin who blacksmiths too (and has had actual training whereas I have not) said I should get the top refinished so the things I make (many of which are blades) will come out nice and smooth. Is there a way for me to do this myself, and is it worth doing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliecummings Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Heya! I just read your post and have the exact same question and same anvil!! So I'm gonna post a couple pics, trying not to hijack the discussion but maybe the pics will help with the discussion. Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 If you start grinding on the face you will remove the thin and precious tool steel face. The face will smooth some as you work, and you can build a hardy tool that can have a mirror finish. Small blemishes will not transfer. For blade smithing I presume you plan to leave a little extra material for stock removal, so modest sized blemishes that may transfer will be removed. Fire scale will cause larger blemishes than a modest blemish on your anvil face. Take a wire brush to the anvil and then use it some. If it becomes a problem, then you can look into replacing the anvil (better idea) or working on the anvil. Cold work requires a much better anvil finish than hot work. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 I would call Charlie's anvil modest sized blemished, but a whole lot of them. Some of those can be worked out by peening around them. Blemishes of that nature are caused by material being pushed in which causes a small ridge around the blemish, if the ridge is still there and has not worn away, you can push the material back. A mark from a missed hammer blow can be repaired in this manner, cold. Since those are old marks, the material may have worn away, so trying to chase them back may be, um, chasing your tail, so to speak. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliecummings Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Thanks Phil. Could be be more specific on the peening process for a rookie like me? Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Well, if you say miss a blow, and create a moon shaped depression in the face of the anvil, there is a ridge of material formed from the displaced metal. Now, if you start plannishing, peening, the far side of this ridge and work the metal back to the divot, then you can smooth the anvil face back. If you leave it for later, the ridge may be worn away by other work that is done and the material is gone, unable to be worked back. I have read about others doing this, but I have not attempted this. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Have you ACTUALLY USED the anvil as is? Which of the blemishes transfer to the hot metal? IF the blemishes near the horn transfer (for example), then work the metal in another area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 I just picked up my first anvil today, a 120 lb. fisher norris from 1891. Being old, however, it's got some dimples and whatnot in the surface, You really have to post some pictures to get any good replies. There is some work you can safely do, but we need to see what you are starting with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backwoods Blacksmith Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Get a large smooth flat bastard file and draw file the face to remove the snaggy high spots. With a file you can keep the face flat and remove only the high spots. The only time to use a grinder on an anvil is when you radius the edges If the work is still picking up marks that cannot be removed, make a hardy plate and use it for your finish work. I think you will find that a hardy plate will be of use anyway for edge forming and packing. In time,without further abuse, the face will smooth out. I have taken whanged up anvils and used a large surface grinder the rework the face with good results. Most anvils with hardend faces are 1/2 in or better. Good luck and keep the hot end on the anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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