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I Forge Iron

Mystery hammer


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Does anyone know what make this hammer is? I couldn't find any markings on it at all. It's very similar to Dupont/Fairbanks hammers but isn't identical to any of them that I've seen. It's possible that one of the big mill companies like Amoskeag decided to build a hammer in-house rather than buy one from a competitior, or maybe this is a prototype? It's a 100 pounder and probably weighs about 2000... looks a little light so I'm gonna bolt it to a chunk of 3" plate.

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I found it by networking through a friend of mine who is a professional smith in New Hampshire... He introduced me to a friend of his who had this hammer set up in his shop since the mid 70s and was ready to part with it. It seems to be very well maintained except for worn dies but I don't think it was set up optimally, just a leather belt from the motor to the pulley on the back of the hammer with another pulley connected to the treadle to tension the belt and power the hammer. It ran "like an old whore" (that's a quote from the previous owner; apparently it takes awhile to get going but works good once it's up to speed). I did some picking today and got a cone clutch assembly from some old line shaft equipment I'll use as a clutch/jack shaft so it will be a bit more controllable and hopefully be able to do a good solid single blow. I also got an old beaudry champion #4 from the same man but It's a real project as its been outside for decades and has a cracked sow block.
If anyone in New England is looking for a hammer I'm thinking this one is for sale... The better I get it running the more expensive it will be <_<

I guess I'll go post that in Tailgating.

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Some of the best hammers I've used or owned had slack-belt clutches. Might just need a fresh belt, leather is best, but not old and dried out. VERY IMPORTANT that the motor be turning the right way! A belt drive has a tight side and a slack side. The motor is pulling one side tight and the idler must be on the other side. Otherwise, when the belt pulls tight, it pushes the idler away. Close to 50% of the slack belt drives I see are wrong and the owners are amazed when we correct it. Bet this one was set up wrong too.

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Listen to what Grant is telling you. My Bradley hammer use slack belt drives. Properly setup they are the most reliable of all.
The cone clutches for line shaft may not work as you think . They are not designed to slip as the clutch on say a little giant
does. It may not be worth the trouble to set up.

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I have the idler pulley, It's just not on the hammer in the pictures. I was also thinking that the belt on the hammer may have been a bit light and too prone to stretching. I have some heavier leather I may use. The idler pulley was set up to tension the slack side but it was pushing the belt out for some reason, not pulling it into the wheel. I have a few different clutches, the one I may be leaning towards can be lined with leather or wood, or I may go do some more hunting in a local junkyard, I saw something promising there the other day but didn't have time to dig it out... If nothing else it will give me a good jack shaft and more rotating mass.

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