Karn3 Posted May 24, 2011 Posted May 24, 2011 I've embarked upon my first knife making project and I'm getting to the point where I need to start thinking about a handle. I have a vague idea about guards but would appreciate some additional advice. I only have limited access to tools, the only big tool being a pillar/press drill, so I was wondering if you knowledgeable chaps had any tip for how I should go about making it and what I should make it from. The actual grip I'm fine with, I'm going to use some walnut root. The thing I was wondering is what goes on the end to cap the whole thing off? Is it just as simple as having the tang finish inside the wood or is there alternatives or other methods I could think about? Many thanks in advance, and I'll post some pictures when I'm done. If you want to see how the blade is coming along you can check it out here: http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/21947-first-attempt/ Quote
ornametalsmith Posted May 24, 2011 Posted May 24, 2011 Yup,...........could be a completely "hidden tang" or you could add a "pommel". To add the end cap or pommel...you can "thread" the end of the tang....let it stick out of the end of the wood....so you can screw on the pommel. Hope that isn't confusing.... :mellow: Quote
Ed Steinkirchner Posted May 27, 2011 Posted May 27, 2011 I have a sketch for just such an occasion. I know my handwriting is atrocious, but I hope it helps Ed Steinkirchner Quote
felix24 Posted June 16, 2011 Posted June 16, 2011 To make the guard/bolster, the first, and trickiest (in my opinion), thing you need to do is make the tang slot. This is the slot that the tang slides through when assembling the knife. To make the slot using your drill-press, drill a series of holes, in a straight line, through your guard/bolster material (eg, brass, stainless steel, copper etc) using a drill-bit that is the same (or as close as you can get) thickness as your tang. The length of this series of holes should be slightly less than the width of your tang. Then get some needle files and file away the spaces between the holes to join them up, thus creating the slot. Then it's just a matter of slowly filing the slot until it fits snugly around the tang. If you want you can have the tang finish inside of the wooden handle. If you do this, then I would suggest you add a pin to prevent the blade from popping out of the handle. If you want the tang to go all the way through the handle, then there are two ways that I know of to add a pommel. The first is to leave a small bit of the tang sticking out past the pommel, and then to peen it with the ball-peen of your hammer until it mushrooms out over the pommel. This will hold all your handle components firmly in place. The second is to file the end of the tang round, and then thread it. Next tap the corresponding hole in the pommel and screw it on to the tang. This will also hold everything in place for you. My explaining skills leave a lot to be desired ...so I hope this is some help to you All the best with it! Quote
Taye Posted July 28, 2011 Posted July 28, 2011 Piggybacking off this topic (sorry Karn) if i understand correctly, the handle piece or pieces is tailored to fit the tang of the blade in question. also, for any of the seasoned bladesmiths who are reading, what is your preferred material for the handle of a blade? i've debated several materials that are available to me locally, i have deer antler, or bone, and pretty much any american hardwood you can think of, but what wood would you guys recommend. Quote
ThomasPowers Posted July 28, 2011 Posted July 28, 2011 I'd recommend the wood that goes best with the blade. Or a sort of "Yes". I've used quite a few woods in my time and am currently hunting some bog oak for a pattern welded blade I have in process... Quote
MattBower Posted July 29, 2011 Posted July 29, 2011 I tend to use the method at the top of Ed's drawing. Countersinking is optional, really. As an alternative to threading the end of the tang, you can also braze on a piece of threaded rod. There are lots of great hardwoods, but I like to use stuff that's hard and durable. A lot of American woods that are hard and durable tend to look pretty boring, in my view. So I lean toward the tropical stuff. But as North American woods go, mesquite and Osage orange (a.k.a., hedge, bodark, etc.) aren't bad. Some of the figured NA hardwoods are pretty nice. I know a guy in Arizona who uses a lot of desert willow, and that looks pretty nice to me. I don't know how hard it is. Quote
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