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Is this a bad crack?


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I am looking to get an anvil, but it has an apparent crack in it, is this bad or can it be repaired, or don't worry and just use it?

It is a Hay Budden, Not sure the weight, may be over 100lbs. The crack is in the waist about 1" above the hole inthe front.

THer are also some other pieces that may go along wiht it. I am just trying to decide what I should offer.

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That's the line where the body and base were welded together. Does it still ring? It may be a fault down the line but you should still get some use out of it if it is still strongly attached and rings. On a positive side, you can repair that crack with good results and if you keep the face under water, it won't ruin the temper while you're welding. As to what to offer, that is up to how badly you want an anvil, how many others there are and how much it would cost to repair the crack if required.

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If the price was right I'd buy that one even if it was broken off at the waist weld! Face looks real good. Note that the more recent anvils (only 80 years old!) even by top notch companies often were arc welded at the waist

Weight in pounds should be on the waist on the Hay Budden stamp side.

I'd not be in a hurry to pick up that grinder; looks like a shop accident in waiting.

The Post vise is a Columbian made in Cleveland OH IIRC.

The anvil is the heavy hitter in the price, followed by the forge and postvise. Though forges are easy to build and postvises are not!

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If it rings, and a HB should, and it has good rebound, then don't worry about the crack. The seller should let you smack it with a ball peen hammer. It the hammer doesn't bounce back, then run, don't walk away from the anvil ( still get the vice! ) If it bounces back then you can deal on the price ( horn looks a little rough, but that may be the pictures. It the hammer bounces back and smacks you in the forehead, this is why you don't stand behind the hammer, when you wake up do a internal happy dance and start dealing.

I agree with Thomas, The grinder is very scary ( kind of a cool shelf piece, but I wouldn't use it!) The forge is good, but no blower. If you can get it all for 400-600 consider yourself very lucky
Anvil - guessing its about a 150lb - ~$250- $300
Post vice - again guessing on size ( looks like a 5-6" ) $200ish if mint.
Forge - with no blower ~$100
Ginder - a box of band-aids and a DIY finger re-attacher kit should come with it!

That is based off of what I've seen on e-bay lately. ( not including shipping )

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If it rings, and a HB should, and it has good rebound, then don't worry about the crack. The seller should let you smack it with a ball peen hammer. It the hammer doesn't bounce back, then run, don't walk away from the anvil ( still get the vice! ) If it bounces back then you can deal on the price ( horn looks a little rough, but that may be the pictures. It the hammer bounces back and smacks you in the forehead, this is why you don't stand behind the hammer, when you wake up do a internal happy dance and start dealing.

I agree with Thomas, The grinder is very scary ( kind of a cool shelf piece, but I wouldn't use it!) The forge is good, but no blower. If you can get it all for 400-600 consider yourself very lucky
Anvil - guessing its about a 150lb - ~$250- $300
Post vice - again guessing on size ( looks like a 5-6" ) $200ish if mint.
Forge - with no blower ~$100
Ginder - a box of band-aids and a DIY finger re-attacher kit should come with it!

That is based off of what I've seen on e-bay lately. ( not including shipping )


Anvil rings nicely higher pitch at the horn and hardie hole. Horn is kinda mushrooomed on the point, but it could be dressed. Vice is missing spring. Grinder is just a grinder. Forge Is in decent shape minus the blower as you can see. I am gonna start at $300.00 I think that is a fair starting price
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I'm not seeing a problem with the grinder. Yeah; as is, its a hazard, but I'm looking at the potential, not the as-is, stuck-inside-the-box presence. Clean it up, put a new wheel and perhaps a Vee belt pulley on it, buy a 1/2 hp or larger motor from HF, build a guard and tool rest for the wheel and guard for the pulley and start grinding! :) (Mount the base to something solid, of course; like a bench!) Can you get a bench grinder cheaper? Of course, but will it have the same "curb appeal"? Not hardly!! :D

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I would not worry about the "crack" but you may be able to convince the seller that there is something wrong with it- a good way to keep the price down. I just picked up an 84 pound Arm & Hammer that you can see the joint all the way around, but it is still in one piece and being over 100 years old I do not think it will come apart in my life time.
And the spring is an easy fix, look at the screw the edges should be square on the top of the screw, not rounded over, take it all the way out and look at it, I have seen some with big chunks missing

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