Altusjg Posted March 23, 2011 Posted March 23, 2011 So my propane forge is now up and running so it's time to play!!! I really like the look of a double edged boot knife or a dagger style blade so im trying to make my first one. Here are a couple pics of what i've got so far. These pics or straight out of the forge and wire brushed. I still have a good deal of file work to do as well as a guard to forge and a handle to build but here is the rough product. Let me know what ya'll think. Quote
Altusjg Posted March 23, 2011 Author Posted March 23, 2011 Thomas,I drew out a rail road spike and cut the head off. I've got a good bit of file work done now and will post pics when i can. Quote
Altusjg Posted March 24, 2011 Author Posted March 24, 2011 Here are some pics after a bit of file work. Still have to polish and sharpen the blade. Quote
GregDP Posted March 24, 2011 Posted March 24, 2011 Looks like you've worked very hard. Hope you enjoy your knife when finished. Quote
Bentiron1946 Posted March 24, 2011 Posted March 24, 2011 RR spikes are OK but not the best of steel to use for knife making but it will still be functional for a few sticks I suppose, I sure wouldn't want to be on the receiving end of a stick. Looking good so far! Looking forward to the finished product. :P Quote
Altusjg Posted March 25, 2011 Author Posted March 25, 2011 Mr. Bentiron, This knife is only my forth knife and is more for practice than anything. I'll take it through the entire process of hardening and tempering and i'll fully furnish it but it will not be used for anything more than decoration. I have some 1095 and 15N20 stock that i want to make a quality blade of but wanted to practice my technique before working on a blade that will be called into service. I have quit a few railroads in my area and its easy to find spikes so i'm using what i have to practice on. I definately do intend to make a dagger of quality steel down the road though. Thanks for the input and for looking. Quote
Tiapan Posted March 25, 2011 Posted March 25, 2011 hey any sharp pointy thing is better then no pointy thing. All things considered obsidian is much sharper then steel, it just breaks much easier too. A lot of trail knives that see hard use are not made of very high carbon steel because its much harder to sharpen in the field. the Cliff knife is a great example, So are most machetes. I am doing much the same as you though and using spikes and rebar to practice on because it cost me pretty much nothing. When i feel my hammer control gets so good that i dont need to practice (read that as never, I can and will always need more) then i will stop using scroungeable materials. I just love the idea of taking something that someone was going to trash,leave sitting on the ground and rust, or turn into a scrap place, into a new usable and attractive tool. Once i feel i have done well with the spikes, thats when i moving on to files and the springs, then one day i might spend money on new stock, but i got a whole lot of old to get through first. ;) Quote
Altusjg Posted March 26, 2011 Author Posted March 26, 2011 Hey Tiapan thanks for checking out my post and the responce. Hey your not far from me being in Houston. I'm in Port Arthur, Tx to your southeast. I'm working with the same plan in mind as you. I have a professioin so this is a hobby for me and im in no rush to make my perfect blade although i do try to practice toward outdoing myself each time i produce a new blade or anything for that matter. I've been having a good time with it and that is ultimately my goal. Thanks Again!! Quote
ThomasPowers Posted March 28, 2011 Posted March 28, 2011 I generally advise people to practice on the same stuff they will be working with. Carving butter doesn't train you a lot for carving wood. High carbon steels are worked differently than low carbon steels---much more fussy about forging temps and ranges, possible conduction quenching from anvils and vises, how hard it is to work them, etc. Not to mention the whole heat treat process. What I often suggest to people starting out on knives is to take an auto coil spring and cut it down opposing sides to make a dozen or so curved pieces of stock and then work your way through all of them including heat treat---having a bunch of pieces of the same stuff allows you to figure out what works best for you in heat treating coil spring blades. Testing to destruction is highly suggested as is keeping a logbook of what you did and how it worked. Quote
Altusjg Posted March 29, 2011 Author Posted March 29, 2011 Thank You Mr. Thomas. I've looked up a few auto scrap yards in my area but haven't made the trip to any of them yet. Guess i need to go ahead and do that... Thanks again for the advise. Quote
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