Altusjg Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 Hey Guys im working on my first little gas forge. Its made of 1/16" sheet metal i got from an old bbq pit. I used flat bar to make the legs. Its not perfect by any means but i'm hoping it will work out. It measures inside at 8 1/4" x 5 1/4" x 12" deep. I have the bottom clayed in to about 1/8" thick and plan to do the entire thing but ran out of clay for now. After the clay i plan to line the entire thing with 1-2 inches of durablanket. I should end up with roughly a 6"x3"x10" burn chamber. I'm planning to get some fire bricks to close in the front. So what do yall think? Any ideas on how to make it more efficient? I also decided at the same time to make my own burner based off different burner designs i've seen made here and elsewhere. It's venturi style measuring 20" total length. The burn tube is 3/4" x 10" with 1"x5" intake chamber with a slide choke. I'm using a .035 mig tip for my contact tip screwed into sched 80 1/8" pipe. So again what do yall think? Will this burner be to big or small for my forge or should it work? Any ideas or suggestions are welcome. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 How will you support the blanket? Many home built forges are round so that you can have the blanket self supporting in an Arch configuration. For square you often have to go with a board refractory, more expensive and harder to find usually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altusjg Posted March 4, 2011 Author Share Posted March 4, 2011 Hmmm... good point. I guess i could use the outer layer of clay to round off the corners a bit. I've read where others have welded sheet rock screws to the interior to support the insulation. Obviously i would have to do that before finishing the outer layer of clay. If not, do you think i could use another thin layer of clay on the inside of the insulation to support it? What do ya think about the burner Thomas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Hall Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 I welded stainless bolts to a section of metal i use as a door, and just pushed the durablanket over them, then coated with ict-100............ it holds up ok, but i think u will have problems with the flat roof wanting to sag if you dont put some creative thaught into that, I think I would maybe take a look at some time of bow system like a stainless rod threw the middle of the inner layer of durablanket too hold it all up. and yes if you use ict-100 it will make it a bit more ridgid, but not enough to really count. Stainless is great here because it can take way more heat than carbon, dependant on the grade it can really get up there before it deforms. So you wont have to have your hardware covered by all that much insulation if you use stainless. Great luck with it man I just recently built my own for the first time as well, and I love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altusjg Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share Posted March 6, 2011 Thanks for the ideas Nathan but i decided to go with the metal bucket forge. I had one sitting around so i cleaned it out and painted with 1200 deg heat resist paint and i put legs on it. I'm now waiting on my durablanket and itc-100 to come in the mail. I'll post a couple pics when i make a little more progress. Thanks Again!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altusjg Posted March 11, 2011 Author Share Posted March 11, 2011 Here is the latest update on my home made gas forge. I decided to take Thomas's advice and go with the round body instead of the square one in the above pics. The burn chamber ends up being 3.5"x4"x10" with 2" durablanket lining. I cut a small slot in the rear to allow for longer projects when the time comes. I'm still waiting for my itc-100 to come in to coat my durablanket. With that it mind, do i need to put fire to the blanket prior to coating it or can i just coat with itc-100 then fire cure? As you can see, i havent cut my torch access yet. Again im waiting on a couple pieces to come in the mail. Thanks for taking a look and let me know what ya'll think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kraythe Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 I welded stainless bolts to a section of metal i use as a door, and just pushed the durablanket over them, then coated with ict-100............ it holds up ok, but i think u will have problems with the flat roof wanting to sag if you dont put some creative thaught into that, I think I would maybe take a look at some time of bow system like a stainless rod threw the middle of the inner layer of durablanket too hold it all up. and yes if you use ict-100 it will make it a bit more ridgid, but not enough to really count. Stainless is great here because it can take way more heat than carbon, dependant on the grade it can really get up there before it deforms. So you wont have to have your hardware covered by all that much insulation if you use stainless. Great luck with it man I just recently built my own for the first time as well, and I love it. That will be a problem with thermal cycling. ITC-100 is not enough to make KAO Wool or other ceramic blanket rigid. You will need a wool rigidizer at least. Many square forges are done with castable honeycomb instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 (edited) Here is the latest update on my home made gas forge. I decided to take Thomas's advice and go with the round body instead of the square one in the above pics. The burn chamber ends up being 3.5"x4"x10" with 2" durablanket lining. I cut a small slot in the rear to allow for longer projects when the time comes. I'm still waiting for my itc-100 to come in to coat my durablanket. With that it mind, do i need to put fire to the blanket prior to coating it or can i just coat with itc-100 then fire cure? As you can see, i havent cut my torch access yet. Again im waiting on a couple pieces to come in the mail. Thanks for taking a look and let me know what ya'll think. That's going to be a fine little forge! I like the rear slot; I'm in the process of constructing my third gasser and chose to use a rear opening similar to your design . As for firing before coating the ceramic blanket; I have not heard of doing so. Generally its put on before the first firing. Just a thought; I like to use refractory mortar over the blanket. It gives it a bit more protection than ITC-100 by itself. The ITC does give some rigidity but is more intended for heat reflection than durability. You can put on additional coats but that gets expensive. By comparison, the mortar is much cheaper. I use AP Green's Greenpatch 421 with excellent results. For the price of a a quart of ITC-100 you can buy a 55# bucket of Greenpatch that is rated to 3600° f and coat dozens of forges of this size or have plenty left for years of repairs. I've been told it will keep indefinitely as long as it doesn't dry out. (OK I'm starting to sound like an AP Green rep. LOL I'm not; it just has worked so well for me) ITC can be painted over that and less is used because it doesn't soak in as much as it will when applied directly to the blanket. In reality, I don't even use ITC but that's a personal choice of frugality. (OK, I'm cheap ) A proven method of application of ITC or mortar is to wet the blanket with a spray bottle first. This makes painting the coating on easier and won't cause the brush or what ever you use to stick to the fibers of the blanket as much. You don't need to soak it but you can get it pretty wet. It'll just takes longer to dry, but be sure to allow it to dry thoroughly before firing. Hope this helps. Edit: Kraythe posted while I was writing this but his post supports what I said about using mortar first. Scott Edited March 11, 2011 by Dodge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 Just like "the proof of the pudding is in the eating" The proof of a burner is in the burning. If you followed a set of proven in directions, then it should be fine. If you went and changed things then who knows! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altusjg Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 Thanks for the input guys. Dodge, i think i mite just try that coat of refractory clay/cement. I was kicking the idea around but hadnt decided yet. I lined my little brake drum forge with it and really liked how it worked. I'll post some more pics when im finished. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 The air slots in your burner look really small. With a sliding choke you can make them rather large safely, as long as you leave enough metal to support the tail end. The choke will allow for adjustment, as well as the position of the gas jet (although the jet is set and left). Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altusjg Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 Thanks for the input Phil. I had to go with a shorter inlet chamber as my 1/8" sched 80 pipe nipple was only 3" long and i couldnt choke it far enough up into the inlet chamber. The pics below reflect the change as well as the first firing of the torch. I only have a 0-10 psi hp regulator with out a gauge right now as my 0-30 reg with gauge is on its way in the mail(its rediculous how many of these simple items i can not find around where i live. maybe im just looking in the wrong places). Again i am unable to tweek the psi much but the pics are maxed out at 10psi. How does the flame look? Any suggestions on the inlet holes on this one Phil? Does it look like im getting a decent air/gas mix? Also i have pic of my forge lined and coated with itc-100. I'm still waiting on the coating to dry as i just put it on last night. I'll apply another touch up coat later today and let it dry a day or two before firing it up. All input/advise is welcome. Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Just like "the proof of the pudding is in the eating" The proof of a burner is in the burning. If you followed a set of proven in directions, then it should be fine. If you went and changed things then who knows! Nice to see it quoted correctly. Everyone says "the proof is in the pudding" when the adage is as you quoted; "The proof of the pudding is in the eating"! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altusjg Posted March 17, 2011 Author Share Posted March 17, 2011 Here is the first firing of my little forge. The itc-100 has dried completely and my 0-30psi regulator came in so its ON!! I slowly worked the regulator up to 20 psi in increments of 5 over about 20 min to allow it come up to temp slowly. The railroad spike was in the forge for just under 2 minutes!! I'm loving it already!! Cant wait till my next stretch off work so i can play. Let me know what yall think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhrocker Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 Here is the first firing of my little forge. The itc-100 has dried completely and my 0-30psi regulator came in so its ON!! I slowly worked the regulator up to 20 psi in increments of 5 over about 20 min to allow it come up to temp slowly. The railroad spike was in the forge for just under 2 minutes!! I'm loving it already!! Cant wait till my next stretch off work so i can play. Let me know what yall think. I think you've done a great job with your forge! You'll get lots of use from it as long as you keep it in good shape, meaning mostly the wool lining. You mentioned you're running it at 20 psi. That seems a bit high, I usually keep mine around 6 to 12 psi depending on what I'm doing. Some guys even run theirs at like 2 and 3 psi, but I think those are mostly blown forges and don't need to extra push to pull the air in. Anyway, congradulations, and go make something and shoot a photo of it. This group loooooves pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altusjg Posted March 23, 2011 Author Share Posted March 23, 2011 Hey Rhrocker, thanks for the input and you are absolutely right. Since those pics, i have fired that little baby up a few times and realized real quick that i didnt need much more than 10psi to do even the thickest stuff(which up to this point has been railroad spikes)that i would be working on. I start around 10psi and once i get a piece of stock or spike drawn and thinned out i knock it down to around 5psi. I'm absolutely satisfied with the way it turned out and also realized how much easier it is to draw out a piece that im able to get up to a proper temp. No more pounding and pounding to no avail. I'm currently working on a dagger.... or a dagger like object and will post pics as soon as i can. Thanks again!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 I think you've done a great job with your forge! You'll get lots of use from it as long as you keep it in good shape, meaning mostly the wool lining. You mentioned you're running it at 20 psi. That seems a bit high, I usually keep mine around 6 to 12 psi depending on what I'm doing. Some guys even run theirs at like 2 and 3 psi, but I think those are mostly blown forges and don't need to extra push to pull the air in. Anyway, congradulations, and go make something and shoot a photo of it. This group loooooves pictures. Rh, My blown burner runs nicely at 2psi (according to my regulator) and my naturally aspirated burners have run at 8 - 12 and higher so that sounds like a reasonable deduction. Altusjg, Looks like ya done good! Definitely a hotty!! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.