Fe-Wood Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Here are couple benches I've been wanting to make for a while. I was hoping to make these as part of a job but the money.... you know, it ain't what is used to be.... The white in the finish is wax that still needs to be buffed out I will be using some slab Pine with blue stain in it for the seats. Let me know what you think..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harley Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Here are couple benches I've been wanting to make for a while. I was hoping to make these as part of a job but the money.... you know, it ain't what is used to be.... The white in the finish is wax that still needs to be buffed out I will be using some slab Pine with blue stain in it for the seats. Let me know what you think..... Very nice work ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenny Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Very nice!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 I like the simple look and notice that you have used almost all traditional joinery... very nice! I do think that you will wish for some sort of diagonal element though, to resist wracking. Benches get quite heavily stressed. It may be that you can still add such an element... any thing to create a triangular shape in the horizontal axis. I think you won't have any problems with front to back wracking stress... just the sidewise looks vulnerable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Yeah, I agree on the bracing. After all the work that went into making them, it would be a shame to see them collapse. I'd put in some sort of angle bracing for sure. Otherwise they look great. My 2 cents. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knots Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Nice design beautifully executed. I expect that they would support my 215 pound butt rather nicely as built. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clinton Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 If you are using slab pine it must be 3 or 4 inches thick, Right? run some lags in there and I do not see it racking on you. give it a test run with the wood installed. Lookin good Fe-wood the layout of tenons looks like it came together nice for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 Thanks for the comments and suggestions! All good feedback!!!! When the bench top is on, they are very stable.... I picked up the material for the tops today. I'll be working them this weekend... What do you guys think about backs? As in, a back for these benches. They kinda strike me as buggy benches. Someone suggested steel pickets with a wood top to tie it all together. I designed them as a entry way (mud room) bench for changing shoes so they would be up against a wall.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chyancarrek Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Fe, VERY nicely done - set the slabs on, then make the call about backs. You've got great underpinning there - backs may overweight them visually. Pics - Pics - Pics when they're done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam2519 Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Great looking Benches so far Fe Dimensions of stock used and bench seats? As for the question of putting backs on them. I would go with not putting backs on them. But if the walls they are going up against are bare, perhaps you could put a false back! like a bit of wall art in the shape of a back that sits slightly above but does not join to the bench. Hmmmm..... Have I got you thinking about it yet? Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 Backs Hmmm, I'm leaning away from it, the more I think about it, I like the overall simplicity! Stock for the seats is about 2" thick x 16" wide with one live edge. Will add pictures when they are done.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 Here's the tops installed- I'd forgotten how nice it is to work with air dried material. I hand planed to top and edges because I wanted the hand made look to carry into the seats. I'm thinking I want to put a really mild amber stain on them to tone them down just a bit.... What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 Even clear finish will darken and yellow the look somewhat... you can dampen them to get a rough idea how they'll look with a clear finish. Personally I would distress them and apply a dark antiquing stain that would shadow the rough and recessed areas. Such a finish is very easy to maintain and goes nicely with the dark iron legs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam2519 Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 Looking good Fe I agree with Bigfoot, most certainly needs a darker stain with those nicely forged frames. Giving it a distressed look is up to you. Can't wait to see the finished product. (pun intended) Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fosterob Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 Very nice, I am sure they will look great when you're done. Please post pics. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chyancarrek Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 Man those are nice! I'm with ya on the amber stain - I like to use Minwax Natural on pine and fir - it gives a nice warmth to the wood without being overbearing. Have you given any thought to flipping the slabs over so the bevel on the live edges transitions inwards to the iron? It might give it a bit of loft to the top and accent the delicacy of the bases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tala9 Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Very nice work I like the look and the seats finishes it off very nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted January 31, 2011 Author Share Posted January 31, 2011 Thanks for the nice words!! I'll be getting some of that minwax stain- I'm thinking natural and red oak and/or mahogany and play with proportions. As far as distressing... I don't know, I've done some in the past and it always looks sorta phony. I tried dragging pieces around the gravel parking lot, throwing oily nuts and bolts at items, dragging stuff around the shop so they would bang into the machines etc. I think I will send them out into life away from home with a good finish and let real life beat the XXXX out of them Then again, I may change my mind after I put on some finish.....Keep it fun- right? Chyancarrek- I had a problem with the volume of the tops (color may help)- had't even occured to me to flip them- thanks for that! Not these tops but maybe others... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 If I were finishing them I`d use boiled linseed oil since that`s what I sometimes use for iron and have it on hand. The advantage of an oil finish is that it`s easy to touch up and with a soft wood like pine it`ll make it easy to fix those dings and dents that`ll be brought on in use. BLO will give you that amber color you`re looking for and you can add pigmented stains(like Min-wax) or oil based dyes to it to adjust the color. I`d flip the slabs before you attach them and look at them that way.I think you`ll find the visual balance is better that way. Many benches start out with that round edge up because folks think it`ll be more comfortable for folks sitting on them.Flip them and slightly round(like 1/2" radius max) the edges and I think you`ll find the benches both look and sit better.A final detail would be to bevel and round the ends to blend with the edges. Good looking work and it`s right in keeping with your screen name. Stepping away from that spinning lathe for a spell has really paid off for you.Thanks for sharing this with us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNBen Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 You know I have a large diameter white pine that has been sitting on the log deck because I didn't really have an idea what to do with it. I believe you have solved that problem for me. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chyancarrek Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Keep it fun- right? That's the ticket! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nuge Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Hey Fe- I like your design and execution on the bases. How did you do the mortise and tenon on the diamond? It's really tight looking. Something about the slabs seems a bit "off" to me, maybe its that natural edge. Or a bit too heavy looking for the size of the base material which is quite elegant, seems top heavy. Hope its ok to truly "critique", I always like input on my stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted January 31, 2011 Author Share Posted January 31, 2011 Hey Fe- I like your design and execution on the bases. How did you do the mortise and tenon on the diamond? It's really tight looking. Something about the slabs seems a bit "off" to me, maybe its that natural edge. Or a bit too heavy looking for the size of the base material which is quite elegant, seems top heavy. Hope its ok to truly "critique", I always like input on my stuff. I know- My original designed called for 1-1/2" thick material, this is 2". I'm hoping making the color contrast less striking will help. Feed back is worth what you pay for it, right? Just kidding!! I always welcome feedback from people who like AND dislike my work. As long as they can identify why they feel the way they do and offer ideas on what they think might have helped the outcome. As the designer /builder it is up to me to decide if I agree or not, whether I will incorporate the idea or not... That makes the input no less valid, just different tastes... Here is a picture of slitting on the diamond- note the holder, works for round stock too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nuge Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Thanks for the action shot. Any chance we could see a detail of that joint? It looks like a nice one all nestled together but I cant quite see how you made it. I'm going to post something really cruddy of mine so y'all can tear it apart. Critique is such a great tool for improvement, we all need to be a bit more honest about our work and the work of others. Such a fine line though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clinton Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 I would not use linseed oil for anything that would come in contact with clothing (real stinky stuff) I would go with a polyurethane or polycrylic finish on the wood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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