GunsmithnMaker Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 Well, I bought this forge from the person I bought my Hay Budden anvil from. He asked me if I'd be interested in it when I bought the anvil and I tried to research it, but there is no set price on these things as you know. I made an offer and he accepted so when I got the money I contacted him and picked it up last night. I can see that it will need cleaning, adjustments, and a little repair to be perfect, but that's half the fun of owning an original. Does anyone have a picture of what these look like when 100% complete? When it gets over 20* F around here I might be able to start on a restoration and cleaning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cross Pein Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 Looks complete to me. Just make your new handle and if the ratchet is working you should be good to go. Don't forget to clay it before using it. There are some instructions here Frosty's recipe. (Post #7 in the thread.) Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Einhorn Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 I looks pretty complete to me, it may have had a small curved wind shield on one side, and a working handle. Here is a restored one that I saw on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/Blacksmith-Forge-Tool-/290523896472?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a492da98 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marksnagel Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 Looks great! Enjoy it. It that a crack in the fourth picture? Even so its a great looking forge and should do you well for a long time. Nice find. Mark<>< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunsmithnMaker Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 Looks great! Enjoy it. It that a crack in the fourth picture? Even so its a great looking forge and should do you well for a long time. Nice find. Mark<>< I noticed that when I looked at these pictures too. It's not noticeable when you are just looking at the forge so I'm not sure if it goes all the way through or it is somehow cast that way. That's why I'd like to clean this forge up a little before lighting a fire. I'd also like to replace the drilled pipe cap with a better ash dump I've seen one replicated that's sold on ebay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Dean Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 If it is a crack I would suggest that you NOT weld or braze it back...it will just make it worse and most likely crack again. Drill a hole, 1/8", at the end of the crack, using some 1/8" x 1" straps and bolt these across the crack.(I used 1/4" x 1" bolts) I have repaired a couple of cast forges in this manner with excellent results. My first forge had a crack from the tuyre to the outer edge had been "repaired" with both nickle rod and brazing, both cracked out with the first fire I lit. I used the above remidy and never had another problem with it. A good friend of mine now owns that forge. The "fire shield" is nice to have, keeps the handle from burning! Good luck with the restoration and enjoy it, it's a nice forge and people enjoy watching them work at demos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junksmith Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 If it is a crack I would suggest that you NOT weld or braze it back...it will just make it worse and most likely crack again. Drill a hole, 1/8", at the end of the crack, using some 1/8" x 1" straps and bolt these across the crack.(I used 1/4" x 1" bolts) I have repaired a couple of cast forges in this manner with excellent results. My first forge had a crack from the tuyre to the outer edge had been "repaired" with both nickle rod and brazing, both cracked out with the first fire I lit. I used the above remidy and never had another problem with it. A good friend of mine now owns that forge. The "fire shield" is nice to have, keeps the handle from burning! Good luck with the restoration and enjoy it, it's a nice forge and people enjoy watching them work at demos. Speaking of cracks, I just got one of these that is not cracked. Would it be a bad idea to wet down the coals around the outside for banking? My other forge is heavy and doesn't mind that, but I worry that the relatively thin cast iron in this one would be prone to cracking if I wet it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Dean Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Speaking of cracks, I just got one of these that is not cracked. Would it be a bad idea to wet down the coals around the outside for banking? My other forge is heavy and doesn't mind that, but I worry that the relatively thin cast iron in this one would be prone to cracking if I wet it down. If it's cast iron you'd be wise to pour a liner in it. I have access to industrial refractory and that is what I use but if you refer to the formula mentioned above that will work too. IIRC there is also a formula as a 'sticky' that is located here Some of these small forges have a pressed metal pan, not cast iron, and these don't need a liner...weird I know but I have one and it used to be my demo forge, have had some REALLY HOT fires in it with no problems. Hope this helps. Oh yeah, if you put too much water on your coal in an unlined cast iron pan....well, expect a loud CRACK! eventually it will happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zampilot Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Well, I bought this forge from the person I bought my Hay Budden anvil from. He asked me if I'd be interested in it when I bought the anvil and I tried to research it, but there is no set price on these things as you know. I made an offer and he accepted so when I got the money I contacted him and picked it up last night. I can see that it will need cleaning, adjustments, and a little repair to be perfect, but that's half the fun of owning an original. Does anyone have a picture of what these look like when 100% complete? When it gets over 20* F around here I might be able to start on a restoration and cleaning. The only question I'd have with that one is how are the shafts riding in the lead bearings? Does it blow strong air? Any wobble or play in any drive shaft? And how well does the centrifugal clutch work? They can be a pain to take apart and fix up but if it works as it should why not? A wheelbarrow arm will work as a replacement with a bit of trimming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunsmithnMaker Posted January 28, 2011 Author Share Posted January 28, 2011 The only question I'd have with that one is how are the shafts riding in the lead bearings? Does it blow strong air? Any wobble or play in any drive shaft? And how well does the centrifugal clutch work? They can be a pain to take apart and fix up but if it works as it should why not? A wheelbarrow arm will work as a replacement with a bit of trimming. I haven't had any time to work with it yet but it seemed to be working alright by pulling on the shaft to the main gear. I can't tell if there is extra play in the mechanism because I'm not used to the way it works. I don't expect old gears to mesh perfectly or to be as tight as new precision gears so until I have a chance to look things over I hope the way it's working is normal. I suppose if it isn't working the way it should my only choice would be to have parts fabricated or do it myself. Maybe I can find the parts on ebay or from someone who has one with a broken pot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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