Tuning up my gasser

[andreas]

Sprucing up my propane gasser for some winter work, and I am recoating with ITC-100. Before this, though, I would like to remove the burners and make sure they are still working well. The burners are the Reil EZ burners and have worked well in the past. When I built them about 6 years ago, I had trouble flaring the nozzles, and I know the flare is not the 1/8th inch over the last 1 1/2 inch as specified on Ron Reils website. Question is, is there an easy way of getting a nice flare on the nozzles?

[DennisG]

Over the horn of the anvil? or if you have a mandrel of some sort.

I am using the same basic design for mine except I am using the 3/4 to 1" pipe bell instead.

Here is where I based mine on http://www.myheap.com/book/chapter-02/reilburner/reilburner.php

I am just not using the nipple and the jar lid, yet, maybe.

[andreas]

Are you able to forge weld with that set up?

[maddog]

Taper should be 1:12 or a bit less. If the nozzle projects 1.5" past the burner tube, that comes out to 1/8".

Zoeller sells preformed SS flares for $10 if buying ready made appeals to you. You can't beat a pressed form for this kind of shape. But IMO flaring a piece of 1" on the horn would be plenty good enough. Whether SS or black pipe my nozzles always die young.

You might consider doing without the nozzle and forming the flare in the kaowool itself. Make a carboard cone of the right length and taper, coat the surface with a heavy layer of ITC 100 and push it up into the aperture in the wool. Fire up the burner and the paper form will just burn out.

[pkrankow]

Taper should be 1:12 or a bit less. If the nozzle projects 1.5" past the burner tube, that comes out to 1/8".

Zoeller sells preformed SS flares for $10 if buying ready made appeals to you. You can't beat a pressed form for this kind of shape. But IMO flaring a piece of 1" on the horn would be plenty good enough. Whether SS or black pipe my nozzles always die young.

You might consider doing without the nozzle and forming the flare in the kaowool itself. Make a carboard cone of the right length and taper, coat the surface with a heavy layer of ITC 100 and push it up into the aperture in the wool. Fire up the burner and the paper form will just burn out.

I tried the cone thing, you need to allow for shrinkage, and you need to have a durable plug to keep the form in shape. I failed miserably in my attempts and bought Zoeller's flares, and have a cylinder removed from the wool for simplicity.

Phil

[Dodge]

for the flares on mine I reduced rather than expanded. I took 1 1/4" pipe (IIRC) the prescribed length and split it and removed a wedge to give the right reduced diameter. I then simply hammered the resulting notch shut, welded and rounded the pipe. I then welded that to a 2" long length of pipe to slip over the burner tube. Voila! removable flares (because they don't last forever. Why build a whole new burner??)

[rawtiron]

I made a flare tool at work (2.5 degrees if I remember correctly) and pressed them out of some heavy wall stainless. Cost me $35 for a metre and an hour to make the tool. I'll get 13 flares out of it. They work a treat.
Jason

[andreas]

Does flaring the nozzle really add that much to the performance of the burner?

[rawtiron]

Does flaring the nozzle really add that much to the performance of the burner?

These are the only flares that I have run, so I have no experience of any other way. I can have the burners ticking over at as low a psi as the regulator will allow and crank them up to 30-40psi without any issues. The flame is really stable all the way through the range.
Jason

[andreas]

Here's a vid of one of my burners. Seems to work Ok.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LxvPfaVmZK8