No weld tue

[pkrankow]

I am in the process of assembling a small forge using the concept of a 55 gallon drum forge, but instead of a drum using a steel table top (well, the table top was formerly an air compressor tank)

I have 3 inch thin wall steel pipe from cloths line posts, about 6 feet of the stuff. I have an electric bathroom vent blower, and the choice of a brake drum from my cavilier (8 inch diameter 1 1/2 inch deep) or the unventilated rear rotor off my wife's Malibu, which is less deep.

From prior experiences I can't weld this thin metal with the equipment I have. How would you make a T for the tue without welding? This forge will be for occasional use.

Phil

[arftist]

I am in the process of assembling a small forge using the concept of a 55 gallon drum forge, but instead of a drum using a steel table top (well, the table top was formerly an air compressor tank)

I have 3 inch thin wall steel pipe from cloths line posts, about 6 feet of the stuff. I have an electric bathroom vent blower, and the choice of a brake drum from my cavilier (8 inch diameter 1 1/2 inch deep) or the unventilated rear rotor off my wife's Malibu, which is less deep.

From prior experiences I can't weld this thin metal with the equipment I have. How would you make a T for the tue without welding? This forge will be for occasional use.

Phil

Do you have welding tips for your torch?

[pkrankow]

Do you have welding tips for your torch?

I have a small AC arc welder that I do not have a 220V outlet in my garage to use it. Otherwise I have a propane plumbers torch that can use MAP gas too.

Phil

[MattBower]

If it were me, I'd probably try to braze it. If the MAP torch doesn't have the horsepower, I would try it in the forge or, if I couldn't get the pieces in my forge (or jury rig something with firebrick, etc.), in open air with a forge burner.

[Mainely,Bob]

I`d go to the dump and pick up some old but usable plumbing fittings and use the threaded connections do the work for me.
If your dump doesn`t allow you to dig around in the metal pile then just go to the source and ask one of the local plumber to let you look thru his old stuff before he hauls it to the dump.

One thing about thin wall welded parts,they`re a bear to replace.Threaded parts I find to be less of a problem.
If you absolutely must use your thin wall tubing then go down to the local auto/truck parts store and look thru the T sections for exhaust pipes they have on hand.Bring your tubing with you.
Pop rivets or sheet metal screws will hold it together and yet still allow repairs.

[pkrankow]

I`d go to the dump and pick up some old but usable plumbing fittings and use the threaded connections do the work for me.
If your dump doesn`t allow you to dig around in the metal pile then just go to the source and ask one of the local plumber to let you look thru his old stuff before he hauls it to the dump.

One thing about thin wall welded parts,they`re a bear to replace.Threaded parts I find to be less of a problem.
If you absolutely must use your thin wall tubing then go down to the local auto/truck parts store and look thru the T sections for exhaust pipes they have on hand.Bring your tubing with you.
Pop rivets or sheet metal screws will hold it together and yet still allow repairs.

Pop rivets and sheet metal screws are excellent, I love them!

I am not dead set on the thin wall, but I have only procured 11/2 inch pipe fittings, and have not been able to get bigger. The 3 inch is actually a little large,the center hole in the brake parts is 2 1/2 inches, but I have been getting a lot of nay saying about 1 1/2 inch. I do not have adequate 1 1/2 inch pipe for between the fittings, and want to use what I have.

I'm not in a hurry and don't get much time in a week to mess with this. I will see if I can get a decent cut on the end of one pipe to close up on a window on the other pipe.

Phil

[Crunch]

I will see if I can get a decent cut on the end of one pipe to close up on a window on the other pipe.

Phil,

This may be useful for laying out your pipe coping cuts:

http://metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi

[Crunch]

I will see if I can get a decent cut on the end of one pipe to close up on a window on the other pipe.

Phil,

This may be useful for laying out your pipe coping cuts:

http://metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi

[pkrankow]

Phil,

This may be useful for laying out your pipe coping cuts:

http://metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi

Thanks! This will definitely help the process.
Phil

[MattBower]

Thanks! This will definitely help the process.
Phil

I've used that program. Worked well, but I seem to recall having some trouble getting the whole pattern to print on one page. I believe I ended up using my calibrated eyeball and some tape to join the two into one. :)

[Crunch]

I've used that program. Worked well, but I seem to recall having some trouble getting the whole pattern to print on one page. I believe I ended up using my calibrated eyeball and some tape to join the two into one.

Yes, I had to do that, too.I printed the pattern on 2 pages and then taped them together.

Also, I found that the pattern that was spit out in the PDF was about 8 or 10% too short (it didn't wrap around the pipe all the way and match up with the lines), so I figured out the ratio of the circumference that was spit out to the correct circumference, and then increased the diameter of the pipe I input into the program by the same percentage.

After I did that, the pattern came out perfect (though my O/A cutting skills could have used some help). Fortunately, with 3" ID pipe, I don't think it was too critical. :huh:

[Frosty]

Even though I went to school to learn to lay these kinds of things out I don't do it anymore. What I do instead is use hole saws.

To make a "T" junction in 3" pipe use a 3" hole saw to cut the pipe, basically drill all the way through it the hole saw will leave two pieces with ends that have a 1.5" radius concave end. Next subtract twice the wall thickness of the pipe from it's OD and use that holesaw to drill a hole in one side of the pipe you're going to join to the firepot.

Now all you have to do is place the concave end of one pipe over the hole in your tuyere pipe and drill a couple holes so you can screw or pop rivet them together.

To join it to the fire pot just cut a sheet metal flange with a couple tabs on the inside of the hole that's a little smaller than the OD of the pipe and large enough it covers the lug holes if you're using a brake drum, rotor, etc. Fold the tabs up 90* and drill them for screws or pop rivets and attach it to the tuyere pipe.

All that's left now is drilling a couple three holes in the flange that match the lug holes in the drum, rotor or whatever you're using for the fire pot and attach them.

I'll bet you a nickle that if I have the correct hole saws I can make the finished tuyere faster than you can get the pattern printed.

Frosty the Lucky.