ironsmith Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 hey guys, i just posted that i made two propane forges (which i still need to post pics of,) and built the burners as well, anyway the burners are the same as I always make them, (A 1 3/4 to 3/4 reducer with a 9 inch 3/4 pipe.) this time i added a 3/4 to 1 inch reducer on the flame end. it seems that this part has melted or fell apart inside the forge. any ideas why? or what i could use to replace this. because it really improved the performance of the burners... Thanks so much I still have the other one so when i get some time off work tomorrow i will post some pics to help. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 hey guys, i just posted that i made two propane forges (which i still need to post pics of,) and built the burners as well, anyway the burners are the same as I always make them, (A 1 3/4 to 3/4 reducer with a 9 inch 3/4 pipe.) this time i added a 3/4 to 1 inch reducer on the flame end. it seems that this part has melted or fell apart inside the forge. any ideas why? or what i could use to replace this. because it really improved the performance of the burners... Thanks so much I still have the other one so when i get some time off work tomorrow i will post some pics to help. It's simple enough. You're burner is well tuned and cast iron melts at a pretty low temp, well below what your burner's putting out. Ron Reil uses SS flares and they burn out before too long. Frosty the Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironsmith Posted October 12, 2010 Author Share Posted October 12, 2010 hey frosty thanks for the heads up about cast , do you know anything about cast stainless steel? I found some reducers the same size with npt threads that will work but dont know how well they would hold up either. another question is if i even really need them, my burners work well inside the forge but if you take them out the flame will not hold and blows out easily, since you dont use em outside the forge my question is does these reducers really serve a purpose inside? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlreif Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 hey frosty thanks for the heads up about cast , do you know anything about cast stainless steel? I found some reducers the same size with npt threads that will work but dont know how well they would hold up either. another question is if i even really need them, my burners work well inside the forge but if you take them out the flame will not hold and blows out easily, since you dont use em outside the forge my question is does these reducers really serve a purpose inside? The burner flares always serve a purpose. They are there to stabilize the flame so you can run at many different pressures. I make a flare out of 316L stainless steel. They seem to last for a good while. I make sure my flares are at least 1 inch into the insulation. This seems to help make them last. You just need to make sure that you carry out the angle of the flare through out the insulation. I hope this helps you out. Good luck. Ps. I can make you a couple of my flares if need be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBower Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 Why not cast the flare in refractory on the inside of the forge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlreif Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 Matt, you can cast the flares in the refractory. It's been don't and works just fine. It's just a little easier to make a flare out of steel. Good point though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBower Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 Matt, you can cast the flares in the refractory. It's been don't and works just fine. I know. I was just wondering if there's some reason he doesn't want to go that route. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironsmith Posted October 12, 2010 Author Share Posted October 12, 2010 well, matt, it is not that i dont want to , its that i have never tried to , and wouldnt know where to start! do you have a how to or what type of refractory is needed to do this with? thanks for the suggestion!:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hammer Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 Tireif alluded to it, but didn't outright say it.... More than likely, you had your burner too far into the forge. The end will burn up, regardless of what it is, if it is down in the forge beyond the thermal blanket or refractory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBower Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 well, matt, it is not that i dont want to , its that i have never tried to , and wouldnt know where to start! do you have a how to or what type of refractory is needed to do this with? thanks for the suggestion! What's your forge lined with? I'd think that any of the commonly available hard, castable, 3000 degree refractories ought to do fine. I'm familiar with Mizzou, which I've ordered from Darren Ellis, but you may be able to source something locally. As far as how to form it, there are probably several ways, but a simple one is to put the burner tubes in place in the forge, insert wooden or cardboard cones into the ends of the tubes (inside the forge, of course) to act as forms. (You'll want to coat the cones with a release agent, first. A coat of grease should do.) Then ram in castable refactory around them. After the refactory is set up, but before it cures all the way, remove the cones. At least that's one way to do it. I've only done it once, but it's a pretty common approach. I'm sure some other folks could give you some tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 There's no reason not to make the burner port flared with whatever form you can remove without damaging the refractory. I don't know if I'd use grease as a release agent but if it works why not. Making a 3/4" burner tube 9" long is a bit much, the 8-9x throat diameter rule of thumb makes a 3/4" tube between 6.5" - 7" long but it's not an exact ratio, if what you're doing is working stick with it. It's not like we're making commercial induction devices. Frosty the Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBower Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 I don't know if I'd use grease as a release agent but if it works why not. It does. It's a little messy, but it gets the job done and burns out quick enough. If someone has a better suggestion, though, I'd be very happy to hear it! Of course you could get by with no release agent at all, but if your forms stick it'll complicate things a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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