Ram's Horn Scrolls?

[ofafeather]

Hi, all. Not sure if the topic has the right terminology but I'm looking to make a slit to make ram's horns scrolls as found on some hooks and hinge straps. I understand the basic idea but I think the finer points of the process eludes me. If I'm working with flat stock I mark the center line and slit or cut the material. What next? What's the best way to work the scrolls? I tried one today just for fun and it was a bit rough. Any thoughts? Also, I've seen a similar design in a hook but I can't tell if they used flat stock or square stock.

Any input is appreciated. Thanks.

Eric

[junker]

fold down one of the sides and forge the other, then fold that 1 down and do the other

[781]

As said above but also taper the piece before you cut itOnce you have them tapered the way you want try twisting them before scrolling

[John B]

Hi, all. Not sure if the topic has the right terminology but I'm looking to make a slit to make ram's horns scrolls as found on some hooks and hinge straps. I understand the basic idea but I think the finer points of the process eludes me. If I'm working with flat stock I mark the center line and slit or cut the material. What next? What's the best way to work the scrolls? I tried one today just for fun and it was a bit rough. Any thoughts? Also, I've seen a similar design in a hook but I can't tell if they used flat stock or square stock.

Any input is appreciated. Thanks.

Eric

Hi Eric, I think the terminology is a problem, and confusing the issue, Rams heads are 3 dimensional, what you seem to be describing is a backplate type of situation, something like this backplate on a hanging bracket.





The bottom end could be made like the bottom end but scrolled outward (looking like rams horns?) or made like the top end, minus the central motif which makes the Fleur de Lys shape but gives the desired shape.

These were done in different ways.

The Fleur de Lys was done solely with the hot cuts /chisels, this way reduces the need for drawing down the tapers





You could do it this way by just continuing the chisel cuts to join and the centre, thus cutting out the central motif, the scroll ends are just then formed around a scroll jig to make them symmetrical. It also leaves the chamfered edge where the chisel has cut as a feature.

The bottom end was made by splitting the bar down the centre, and then as Junker said,

"Fold down one of the sides and forge the other, then fold that 1 down and do the other"

To do this place the split bar flat on the anvil, and as it is laid out before you, knock down one of the sides The one opposite to the hand you hold the hammer with, which will allow you access to draw down the split side to a taper to produce your scroll.



The picture will show what it appears like, the trick is to make them both the same length after drawing out

I think this is what you meant, and hope this helps.

You can then either use a scrolling jig to form the scrolls or do them freehand over the edge and bick on the anvil,
This second method gives you square sides to the tapered scrolls.

[ofafeather]

John,

Yes, you're right in figuring out what I'm looking to do! Thank you for the detailed instructions and the pictures are worth a lot. In the second scenario (bottom of the back plate) where you split then taper, how do you work and refine the area near where the split joins the main body of the piece? Does punching or drilling a hole at that point help?

Thanks!

Eric

[John B]

John,

Yes, you're right in figuring out what I'm looking to do! Thank you for the detailed instructions and the pictures are worth a lot. In the second scenario (bottom of the back plate) where you split then taper, how do you work and refine the area near where the split joins the main body of the piece? Does punching or drilling a hole at that point help?

Thanks!

Eric

You can drill a small hole,

or punch a hole,

or split it with the chisel, and then open the 2 parts into a V, then using a small radiused fullering tool (basically similar to a hot cut/chisel but with a blunt radiused end) and using a rocking motion from the front side of the plate to the back side of the plate, put a radius into the bottom of the V, this will finish it off and stop the tendency for the area to look torn or starting to crack.

When you mark out for the end of the split you need a really deep centre punch mark,(this gives a start location for the hot cut) then mark the centre line on with a cold chisel, then it will be easier to find the centre line when the workpiece is hot, the edge of the hot chisel should have a radius from the sides to allow you to rock the blade in the groove, this helps chasing the split down as you progress, although some do not advocate using a disposable 'soft' piece of material (cutting plate) when you are going through on the anvil face, I would suggest you use one until you are more confident/experienced, When you are more experienced, you can probably also do away with having to mark in the centre line before you start splitting.