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I Forge Iron

My first guillotine


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Here's a couple pics of my first guillotine. It's a 1/4"er, I still plan to make a 3/8", and a 1/2". I made this one for making candle cups, but I'm sure I'll use it for a lot more then that. Let me know what you guys think. I know the welds are looking pretty ugly, gets a little shakey when you start welding and realise you need new gloves. I based it just off some pics I saw of another guillotine that I happened to have the material for.




post-12243-022715500 1275352781_thumb.jp post-12243-040120300 1275352800_thumb.jp

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Looks cool...though i am not sure what a guillotine tool is really for

i have a question... Why do you wrap your Anvil with a chain?



You use a guillotine instead of a spring fuller, I find I make a cleaner impression with them. Also you can do a much larger variety of sized material in it.
I wrap my anvil with chain to 1- hold it down with lag bolts and 2- somewhat deaden the noise.
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Looks good! Just a couple of suggestions, the post where the bolt goes through drill a couple more holes this allows you to adjust for thicker material. The thicker material is mainly pipe for hand bells or making apples, etc. etc.. Instead of hitting the top bar and mushrooming it out weld a chunk of metal to it for hammer blows.

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Why do you wrap your Anvil with a chain?


I use the chain as a "hold down tool". One end of the chain nailed to the anvil stand. Place the object to forge on the anvil, the chain over the anvil/object and your foot on the "loose end" of the chain on the floor.
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You use a guillotine instead of a spring fuller, I find I make a cleaner impression with them. Also you can do a much larger variety of sized material in it.
I wrap my anvil with chain to 1- hold it down with lag bolts and 2- somewhat deaden the noise.

I have been needing a hold down tool...i am going to try the chain.
Thanks for the info.
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Looks good! Just a couple of suggestions, the post where the bolt goes through drill a couple more holes this allows you to adjust for thicker material. The thicker material is mainly pipe for hand bells or making apples, etc. etc.. Instead of hitting the top bar and mushrooming it out weld a chunk of metal to it for hammer blows.


I am going to drill 2 more holes in the shaft for larger items, time just did not allow when I made it. I had thought of welding another piece to the top for hitting but couldn't decide on what size piece as I don't want it to obstruct my view. Maybe I'll get to that once I decide to drill the holes.
Thanks for the suggestions.
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I have been needing a hold down tool...i am going to try the chain.
Thanks for the info.



Look on anvil fire, they have a few plans for hold down tools. Another easy option if you have a single horned anvil is to just get a bike chain slide it over the piece you want to hold and step on it.
My first hold down was what I know as a bent dog, very simple tool that usually goes into a pritchel hole.
Hope this helps.
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Look on anvil fire, they have a few plans for hold down tools. Another easy option if you have a single horned anvil is to just get a bike chain slide it over the piece you want to hold and step on it.
My first hold down was what I know as a bent dog, very simple tool that usually goes into a pritchel hole.
Hope this helps.


Used to be in the 60s-70s every stationary woodworking power tool came with work guides that attached to the fence thru a rod.These things looked like thin leaf springs and they usually were a pair set up at right angles to each other so one held the work to the fence and the other held the work down on the table.I`ve found these being thrown out or just on the dollar table at local sales.
I put the rod thru the pritchel hole with a collar below held by a thumbscrew adjusted to the work and one of the leaf spring holders parallel with the anvil face.You slip the work under the flexible spring steel holder and Bob`s your uncle. :)
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