Thank You John..She was in intensive care in a coma for a week & a half and intensive care for 3 weeks and back 2 weeks later for surgery and 3 more days in ICU,but she's home now just very weak and requiring constant attention..Your prayers are appreciated..

I think the most critical issue would be operating on a level surface to start with. A cart/table with leg adjusters for instance to remove any surface twist. The grinder (either style) will be self adjusting once it's in place since the contact area is so small. As long as the platform is level and little 'flex' in the carriage it should work fine.

As far as shims go... I'm thinking pieces of sheet metal in various thicknesses for various heights since we aren't talking taking off a 1/2" total thickness just thin passes.

Hi mudbugone. I thought of you when I watched Stelian Popa on youtube. He fixed his anvil, but did not do any welding. The video is really fun to watch, though, and it might give you some hints. I watched the whole thing all the way through, and the most important thing I learned was from his answer to the question would he do this again. Not many people have tried this out, and I admire his inquisitive spirit.

Is that the gentleman that fixes his anvil and then dunks it in the lake by attaching it to a boom mounted into his receiver hitch ? LOL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-i2fYo9zF_g&list=FL5YW2dmKsRRevdup2xsZMMA&index=25&feature=plpp_video

I doubt I'd have tried that considering the quality of the anvil he was working with and the fact it seemed perfectly usable not only after he repaired the face and edge ,but even before he touched it at all.. I think if you watch again you'll hear that he did weld that damaged edge before grinding it off flush which is probably why he decided to harden it in video #2.

It's difficult to understand him since he sounds like Antonio Banderas when talking and looks like him too,but I'm almost positive he welded on the edge to build up the missing portion of the face.

If I thought I could pull that off I'd be in with both feet...LOL.

Here's another video

with a repair that most people might find necessary... He's not the only weldor that has suggested using 7018 rods...I think it may cosmetically re-face the anvil,but long term I have to question the suitability of this repair. It's probably acceptable on the small spots he's fixing though....

Thanks for thinking about me... much appreciated.

The following link in the archives might have made this conversation a bit more detailed http://www.iforgeiron.com/page/index.html/_/blueprints/100-series/bp0101-anvil-repair-r330

I'm adding it to this thread now that I found it by accident because it not only describes a repair in great detail,but it includes photos of the step by step repair...

From the description it sounds as if 7018 rods will fill the bad spots and the HF (filler) rods I have are similar to the ones used in that repair.... I should be able to restore my anvil using the described method with it's information.

the pictures have "fallen off of" this thread .. anyone sill have them?

 

and ..  how exactly did you grind the top surface back into flatness?  I have heard tell that I need to use a cup grinding wheel, or perhaps a flared cup, but I am wondering if using one of those with a hand held angle grinder will produce a properly flat surface. I do not have easy access to a surface grinder nor mill

 

Not sure what happened to the pics but maybe the admins know.  I can check to see if I still have them.

I used angle grinders with standard grinding wheels - 7" for the initial more aggressive removal followed by a 4.5" flapper disk (150 grit I think....)  I just used a straightedge to check for highs and lows and kept touching up till I was happy.

-- edit --

I just realized I wrote this up a little bit on my personal site back in 2011.  Here's a link:  http://joemeineke.com/?p=218