jrwnova Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 im looking at "heat stop" as a liner for a propane forge the website says it can handle "well above 2000*" and most of the kaowool handles up to 2300* you think i can use heat stop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 I use kaowool myself. Does the product your interested in work with ITC-100 or other refractory materials? My fealing is "Well above 2000" isn't a good enough rating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtWerkz Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 X2 on what Fe said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 Kaowool, Inswool, I'm sure there must be others, are brand names for a ceramic refractory blanket and prettymuch the standard of the industry to my knowledge. )I used Inswool for my latest gasser) If the "heat stop" is a brand name for another ceramic blanket, it may work. However, I would suggest consulting the manufacturer for application data before spending a bunch and then being at the least, disappointed. That's my two cents and I'm sticking tuit :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 Just happened on this link FWIW. Forge Liner Not sure if its a reasonable price as I've never priced any. I was able to buy scrap for my application... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 check zoellerforge.com and anvilfire.com Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finn;-) Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Most of the ceramic fiber blanket insulation is rated, to a specific tempature... I'm also in the process of building a new forge, I just ordered 2" Inswool HZ 2400, and 1" Inswool HZT 2700. The thicker blanket is good for up to 2400 degrees, but should never see that high a temp, cause I will have a layer of 2700 degree material on top of it smorked down with Satinite, ITC100, Bubble Alumina, and sacrifical firebrick on the floor for good measure. The Satinite is cheaper and helps the ITC100 go a bit further, plus it helps bulk up the wool and make it a bit more sturdy. The Bubble Alumina is supposed to be pretty durable and Very flux resistant. I would trust the Kaowool and Inswool, lots of guys have built their forges out of those two brands of ceramic fiber insulation, and as long as you use atleast a rigidizer... It seems to work well and be safe. If you are planning on doing a lot of forgewelding, you will need to do something to protect the stuff from the flux. Untreated Inswool/Kaowool evaporates when flux gets on it, you probably know this but it never hurts to give a little more information than a person needs, rather than letting them learn things the hard way... ;-) Satinite protects against the flux a little bit, ITC100 protects a bit better, but still not great, the Bubble Alumina is supposed to protect really well. Then there are the hard firebricks, kilnshelves, welding bricks, and the kitty litter:-) I ordered supplies from two different suppliers for this forge build: From Jay Hayes, I order a Fuelsaver manifold kit, ITC100, and some burner flares and bricks. I had to phone him to get him to send me an email price list, and then I emailed my order to him and he figured shipping, he was very helpful and shipped promptly. He sent me some pics of the forge kits that he puts together, and was very knowledgable about building gas forges (his day job is a flame engineer designing burners for industry:-) The other supplier was Ellis Custom Knives, who had nice price breaks on larger amounts of Inswool and the Satinite, and Bubble Alumina, as well as other castable refactories and coatings. They also carried the Ward reducing Tee that I needed for making my sidearm burnerds. They had a nice website with lots of information, but it was a lot more impersonal ordering through their automated website, and my stuff should arrive tommorrow a little over a week since I placed my order, (which is probably a little slower than their normal shipping;-( if I would have paid the rush shipping it would have been here already but who wants to pay twice or three times the cost of standard shipping;-) I would order from both suppliers again, and likely will. If you order burner flares, and you can get them drilled and tap for a couple of bucks more go ahead and do it, unless you are set up and tapping is no big deal... I just spent more time than I cared to drilling and countersinking and tapping the burner flares and burner mounting tubes for my forge. Christian Husband Father Blacksmith Farrier Farmer fairly tired;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrwnova Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 the main use of the forge would be just to heat up steel to a point where i can work with it, I would also like to maybe melt copper or brass down to make a castings but the main use of it would be to work with steel no welding i found some plans online to make the burners but im not sure if i should go with a pipe forge or a box, im looking to line it with a fire brick on the bottom so nothing happens to the linner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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