So I have owned this anvil for almost five years and because of her condition I've never done a lot of work that might further damage her face/edges. I was looking for any info on production run times of Soderfors anvils and some insight to the number and hash marks on her side. I am looking at getting her fixed up through Anvil Brand as I'm told they will properly heat treat once repaired. The face is a bit swayed and her edges are badly chipped and for some reason that upsets me greatly she must have been used as a torch cutting table... I purchased this anvil at an estate auction for 385$ and am quite happy with it in the current condition but would love to put her back to work full time. Any thoughts or info would be great.

I'm not sure I would do much to her. I have seen MUCH worse being used everyday by a prfessional smith. But if that is what you want... As for the notches in the sides, those were made by a smith to check the edge of a cutting tool such as a chisel or the like. They do not hurt the anvil at all, just shows that it was used by a real blacksmith...not to say you are not...it's just part of her history and use of times gone by.

The notches I have a problem with are these "blown out" areas on the face and edge of the anvil, not the test nicks on her legs~ The main issues I have with the condition is that as a farrier its not that easy to get a level shoe when your working in a bowl as compared to a flat face, a slight bevel might not be such an issue but I could eat soup from her face... that and there is not one cornered edge on her that I can pull a clip on, much less make a half decent step down/half face blow to say build tongs~

In my opinion if you can't do what you want to on the anvil, and you have the option of fixing that then go for it. As long as it's repaired correctly I think you should.

As I recall this is a cast steel anvil and so if you can get *proper* heat treat for it afterwards; you can pretty much go wild working on it----be sure to observe proper pre-heat and post-heat if you weld on it.

Lot fewer issues when working with an anvil that does not have a separate face forge welded on where you want to maintain it's thickness as much as possible and you run the risk of delamination if you abuse it.

Just out of curiosity, how much do they charge for this anvil repair service as compared to say one of these http://www.oldworldanvils.com/anvils/kanka.html

I have a Soderfors anvil that was badly scarred by some hack with a cutting torch. I took it to a friend of mine that is a certified marine welder. He said if it could be cut by a torch it was weldable.

He stick welded up the cuts with a high strength rod and called it good. I ground it back to shape taking off the absolute minimum to get a proper radiused edge and reasonably smooth face. The face of the anvil was still flat and fairly smooth , so no build up was required. I'm sure there was not much pre or post heat treatment as it only took about 3/4 of an hour.

Sorry I don't have more technical specifics but that anvil held up just fine as my main shop anvil in full time use for 7-8 years .

Just out of curiosity, how much do they charge for this anvil repair service as compared to say one of these http://www.oldworldanvils.com/anvils/kanka.html

to be honest Im not sure how much they charge I just know the service is available, sorry

If buying an anvil new is similar to repairing that anvil, (or the price of a new anvil less the sale of your current anvil), then I would sell what you have and buy another. Still looks like an awesome anvil for many people without any repair needed.

Phil

The notches I have a problem with are these "blown out" areas on the face and edge of the anvil, not the test nicks on her legs~ The main issues I have with the condition is that as a farrier its not that easy to get a level shoe when your working in a bowl as compared to a flat face, a slight bevel might not be such an issue but I could eat soup from her face... that and there is not one cornered edge on her that I can pull a clip on, much less make a half decent step down/half face blow to say build tongs~

Here's a link to a previous post of mine. Post #6



This anvil had edges as bad as yours, although not so bowl shaped. I preheated by guestimate and built up the edges with 7018 rod. That was 20 years ago. As a farrier also, I know why you need at least some conveniently located square edge. I draw clips off the heel on this one (very thick heavy heel. I can give more rebuilding detail if you want.

More detail would be great Jack, the more I can do on my own before I send her off would be great. I have tried drawing on her clip but as thin as it is she rings like a church bell, and that's with ear protection in heheh

So does anyone have any knowledge about Soderfors as far as time line? I'm going to guess that the marks on her waist 43''6 is June 1943? only things I have found online is that they were established sometime around 1200 ad, Postman notes the oldest he dated was 1903 and the newest at 1934... so I'm just wondering how to place mine.

More detail would be great Jack, the more I can do on my own before I send her off would be great. I have tried drawing on her clip but as thin as it is she rings like a church bell, and that's with ear protection in heheh

To start, here's a link to an anvil restoration article. If you google Rob Gunther - anvil restoration, you'll find more.

http://www.anvilmag.com/smith/anvilres.htm

I wasn't quite that scientific - rather than hard facing rod, I just used a 7018 rod and guestimated at the preheat temperature. Hot enough to sizzle water then a bit more heat. It worked!! Since I'm not the best at controlling my weld puddle, I clamped a copper "chill" strip (flattened copper tubing works fine for this)along the edge that I was building up to contain my puddle. After the face was built up and ground down, I laid the anvil on it's side, moved the chill strip to the now vertical restored face and built up and ground down the side the same way. Since I believe your anvil is solid cast steel rather than having a welded on steel face, you don't need to wory about dissimilarity between the base and the plate.

I didn't do any post heat treatment, but a Vulcan Anvil isn't a cadillac anyway and it's worked for a long time. I had one minor rebuild when I had my son striking for me in a draft shoe contest and he missed with an eight pound sledge and knocked a chunk off one edge.

Jack

Thanks Jack, a good starting point for this project, the chill form to fix the hardy will come in handy. Now all I need is the will to try it out!

Thanks Jack, a good starting point for this project, the chill form to fix the hardy will come in handy. Now all I need is the will to try it out!

I find it quite satisfying to work on an anvil that I restored.

Wesley, Just a note passed on by my old farrier (60+yrs shoeing) He has a 98 lb H-B farriers anvil. Said
its easier to blacksmith on a ferriers anvil than to do shoes on a blacksmiths anvil. I don't shoe but it seems to me. Clips and cams would make your life easier. The swede should bring enough to get ya a nice farriers traveling anvil im MHO.
Ken

Ahh but ya see there is the problem, Im a blacksmith first that is also a farrier, the horses put the food on the table and pay for my smithing and while cams can make things very quickly, I was a student at the Kentucky Horseshoeing School and we had to do 24 weeks not being allowed to use a cam or stall jack, just horn and heat heheh that and I just cant seem to part with my old swede, was my first anvil ya know? though Ill be getting a smaller JHM I think for my new rig whenever I find a new truck that is~ thanks for the info though :)

Ahh I don't see any problem with having more than 1 2 3 or more. Have about 6 if i count the 2 lb jewelers.
Ken