D.Bernard Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 Has anyone repaired/built up an anvil with mig using Rankin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clinton Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 I saw a guy do repair work with 11018 lots of preheat get the whole anvil up to about 400 deg f. this guy said that he repaired anvils this way with good results, hardfacing rods are not recomended Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donnie Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 Why do you want to weld on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unkle spike Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 Show us some pics of the anvil to be repaired, we can help more from what kind of damage is there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrick Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 Ernie Limkueler (I know I spell his last name wrong) wrote an article several years ago on rec.crafts.metalworking in which he details the fabrication of an anvil from plate. He uses Rankin wire to hard face the entire thing. I have used a Ranking stick rod to repair two anvils. It does NOT color match and it does stress crack as it cools. I called the folks at Rankin to see if that cracking was normal or not and they said that it is. In the future, I would personally avoid the Rankin products unless I was sure they would NOT stress crack. What I am looking at now for anvil work is rod and wire made by Cormet. We use their F40 FC-G to repair and reface steam hammer dies. This alloy is a little on the soft side for an anvil, but still quite a bit harder than 7018. Patrick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 Years ago, I fixed an anvil with McKay Tool Alloy HW stick electrodes. Currently, I could not find it on the internet, but I believe it was designed to be "martensitic." The HW supposedly stood for water hardening. I let my work air cool, and it has stood up well over the years. Where the rod was used, I got a brighter color than the original face, so you run the risk of your anvil looking like a pinto pony. McKay/Hobart is still very much in business making specialty electrodes.Turley Forge and Blacksmithing School : The Granddaddy of Blacksmithing Schools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 I used 7018 on mine with great results. It dented a little at a boy scout meritbadge class but very little (inexperanced boys using the cross peen side of the hammer). It has held up for the last 6 years. real pleased with the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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