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forged rose, Aspery style!


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I made my first attempt at a forged rose out of Mark Aspery's excellent book, The fundamentals of Leaf work. I had some trouble with the forge weld at the base of the flower. It wouldn't seem to take. I hammered very lightly at a welding heat but to no avail. I think the 1/4 inch stock had some scale and wouldn't let a complete weld take place. Anyway here it is.http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=18779&stc=1&d=1258424256http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=18779&stc=1&d=1258424256http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=18778&stc=1&d=1258424256http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=18777&stc=1&d=1258424256http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=18775&stc=1&d=1258424256http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=18775&stc=1&d=1258424256

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  • 2 months later...

Here is one I completed last week for my brother in law, he sent me 5 bags of venison jerky, this is my thankyou. Just brass brushed and lindseed oil on the flower, and a touch of gilders paste on the leaves for a hint of green, black walnut base, I did not forge weld the leaves on, as my forge hood was not reinstalled yet, thank god for mig welders.

post-4158-12648492707949_thumb.jpg

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Looks great! Mark Aspery has a worthy competitor in you, and that only your first. Its a shame I can't order his books here in the Netherlands.. Is there anyone in Europe who was able to get them?
By the way, the weld to make the hip is a tricky one, it made me say awful things the first 5 times or so. What I learned for this weld to succeed is to leave the gap very large, larger than you think is right. Then heat it very slowly, just use a wisper of air. The gap will close neatly if you hit it on the side first progressing towards the gap. In this way I've made dozens of collars on pins for historical boats.

I hope this information will help you.

Cheers

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