winger13 Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 how's it going? well ive been wanting to get into bladesmithing for a few years and never found any good deals on a decent anvil. so i decided to check out DIY anvil possibilities. i have about 30 feet of train rail right behind where i work. i used an acetyline torch to try to cut a piece off and after about 20 minutes i only cut down 1/8 inch. so what can i use to cut a piece off? or does anyone have any old ones they want to get rid of? any help would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 Welcome aboard. Please go into user cp and enter a location since IFI has members in 50 countries. People here are also friendly and someone may be close enough to help. I will assume that the rail is legal for you to remove. Using a chop saw with a fiber disk rated to cut steel is effective and leaves a reasonable surface finish, at least much better than a flame cut finish. Probably will take more than 20 minutes this way too. Get a long enough piece to stand on end, since the mass under the hammer is what the metal "sees." Better still, get a few pieces if you can. You will eventually find uses for them. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winger13 Posted October 7, 2009 Author Share Posted October 7, 2009 thank u for ur help. im new to the whole forum thing. i live in nashville, tn. i don't have a chop saw or know anyone who has one. but yes it is legal. there's about 30 feet of it just sitting there. i just have to figure out how to get some. would any other material be an okay starter anvil? perhaps a forklift arm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 Go to IForgeIron.com > Metalworking Lessons > Blacksmithing > LB0005 Blacksmithing Anvils A search of the site should yield answers to how to cut and snap the rr track. A search should yield how to use the fork truck arm as an anvil. Several discussions on that subject. Jymm Hoffman (IFI) sells new anvils Colonial pattern, Colonial pattern with an extra foot, and a double horn. cbl4823 (IFI) sells used anvils all sorts of sizes and brands. There is a 157 LB Peter Wright Anvil for $350 in Waverly, TN if your interested in something closer to home. You may want to contact one or all of the blacksmithing organizations in TN. These folks can help you find blacksmithing equipment as well as answer your blacksmithing questions. Appalachian Area Chapter Blacksmiths Bristol Forge at Rocky MountRiver Bluff Forge Council Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 There's at least a couple good bladesmith / blacksmiths in the Mt. Juliet area. They are grumpy old men who would have me flogged if I gave out their info on a public forum, but if you'll do your homework, you can find 'em. In my beginning period (which I still might be in), I once cut through a piece of rail with a hand hacksaw. Just depends on how bad you want it. Hint: if you try such a thing, start from the bottom and work up. The web is softer than the rail. Good luck, Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 Forklift forks are excellent. You get all sorts of useful flats and rounds on them. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 Was this a cutting torch or just a welding torch? You should have cut the thing in two in less than 5 minutes with a cutting torch set up properly! (Did you have the O2 high enough?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winger13 Posted October 7, 2009 Author Share Posted October 7, 2009 again thank u all. this is helping me a lot. yea i had an acetyline/oxygen cutting torch. both bottles were WIDE OPEN with a 4 inch feather on it and i would heat it until it started dripping a little then i hit the oxygen to blow it away. i would definately like to find a local bladesmith to get in contact with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 The O2 is supposed to burn it away not just blow the molten metal. In fact a person really good with oxy-acetylene can even turn off the acetylene after getting the cut started and use the heat of the metal burning to provide the preheat for the rest of the cut. Both bottles wide open is a danger sign; the Acetylene bottle should only be 1/4 turn open and the regulator set for under 15 psi. The O2 bottle may have 2000 psi in it so a regulator is mandatory for it too. The pressure on the regulator should be set for what your torch requires for cutting. I strongly recommend you to get training on O-A as it can be deadly dangerous if misused. (Did you know that acetylene can blow up even without the presence of oxygen?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 I've never seen rail that could not be torch cut. Spend 5 minutes putting some real pre-heat into the part you're cutting and then use a stirring motion to make a cut about 1/4 inch wide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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