DIDTAS Posted September 28, 2009 Posted September 28, 2009 HI. got a bit of a problem with the gas forge. having used the forge a dozen times the anhydrous borax flux has got into the k wool lining and stuffed it up. i used a high zircon wash over the wool and the flux ate through it. how shoud i go about relining the thing . glad of any help. Daniel Tasmania. AUSTRALIA. Quote
Rob Browne Posted September 28, 2009 Posted September 28, 2009 Daniel, Its times like this that I am happy I use a solid fuel forge and only "play" with a friends gasser. Sounds like its a case of pulling out the old liner and setting up and new one to me but I am sure some of the gurus will chime in very shortly. Cheers Quote
DIDTAS Posted September 28, 2009 Author Posted September 28, 2009 i ment to include a couple of pics of the forge i had problems with. Quote
pkrankow Posted September 28, 2009 Posted September 28, 2009 Sorry, I don't see damage. If you are talking about small holes, I think stuffing them with a small piece of kaowool would do, better if you get the borax out first. Are you using a hard firebrick as a floor? Could you take a closeup pic of the damage? Phil Quote
Rob Browne Posted September 28, 2009 Posted September 28, 2009 Is that liner sealed? If not then some ITC-100 on it may just do the job you need. I was expecting to see great holes in the liner but unsealed liners can be a health hazard. Quote
DIDTAS Posted September 29, 2009 Author Posted September 29, 2009 I miss led with the pics . the pics were when i built the furnace. the kao wool lining had a high zircon wash several times. I use the same wash in an other furnace that i use for melting cast iron .That furnace is still going strong after 150 melts.the iron is melted in a cruisible the failed furnace had a high temp ceramic tile to rest the job on. {the flux ate half of that also] ]. i guess what i need is a method of stopping to flux getting to the to the kao wool .a blow by blow decription of the proper method of lining the furnace by one who knows would be great. cant show any photos of the lining as i stripped it out. if the furnace is lined correctly what sort of life can i expect thanks for the help . Daniel TASMANIA. Quote
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted September 29, 2009 Posted September 29, 2009 For welding, you would be much better off with a lining of castable refractory, like kao-lite. Quote
DIDTAS Posted September 29, 2009 Author Posted September 29, 2009 HI GUYS , thanks for the replys.looks like i might make up another forge lined with castable for welding and use the relined one for forging. good idea yes no ???? Regards Daniel. Quote
Rob Browne Posted September 29, 2009 Posted September 29, 2009 Dan, You are stepping into the BIG BLACK hole of specialised forges. Some people I know have a forge for everything, I think making and modifying forges is the main part of the hobby for them and if that makes them happy that's great. Before you go that way have a search on gas forge plans. Many of them have bricks and inserts for catching flux. Have a look at this page as an example. He puts an easily removed shelf in the bottom. Cheers Quote
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted September 29, 2009 Posted September 29, 2009 I think that two forges might be a good idea. Even with a shelf, if you are forge welding a lot, the flux goes everywhere. There is a mini-tornado in there you know. Especially for forge welding, don't point the burners at the work, come in tangent and heat the lining, you'll be much happier I guarantee it! With the burners pointed at the work it's easier to burn the work and it's harder to see when the part gets to just the right temperature. Quote
DIDTAS Posted September 30, 2009 Author Posted September 30, 2009 Thanks for the replys. will enter the black hole. been to the refactory people this morning. the new furnace will have a 2000 deg c castable hot wall 100mm with 80 mm insulating castable arround that, then 50 mm high temp kao wool enclosed in a steel box. the castable has to be cured in an oven . will post a pic when finished.... Thanks again for all the replys . i should add that i can get it built for zero dollars as i do a bit of turning work for the refactory people when needed . Daniel TASMANIA. Quote
Dave Hammer Posted October 1, 2009 Posted October 1, 2009 Flux will destroy most forge lining. "Plastek 85" is a refractory which will stand up to flux. I use it to line the floor of my forges. It can be purchased online. Call one of the numbers listed below. It is sold in 55 pound boxes as a ramable refractory. I make a wood form and "pack" this stuff into it, then carefully move it into my forge. It's a little pricey, but I assure you it's worth it. It's about $73 plus shipping for 55#. This stuff has a shelf life. It comes as mixed crumbly cakes that will dry out and be worthless if you leave it sit for more than six months, so I would recommend sharing a box (if you only use it for a floor) among several folks. I'm sure it could be used to line an entire forge also. It has very specific instructions for "burning in" the refractory, but I just light the forge, run on low heat for a while, then use for normal forging. This stuff is tons better than using hard brick (heats up faster and retains heat better). If you don't use it all, I recommend making up extra floors, firing them, then putting them aside for future use. Harbison Walker Sales Offices Location Phone Charlotte, NC 704-599-6540 Chicago, Illinois 708-474-5350 Kansas City, Missouri 913-888-0425 Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 215-364-5555 Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania 412-375-6800 Quote
DIDTAS Posted October 2, 2009 Author Posted October 2, 2009 Thanks for the info.talked to refactory guy about the material you mentioned,he has never heard of the stuff. this is understandable as TASMANIA is a bit in the backwoods so to speak. however the fly fishing here is great so i guess you cant have it all . one thing about the great USA is the availability of things ,i import all my knife making gear from the states . regards DANIEL TASMANIA. Quote
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