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GAS forge reline


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got a bit of a problem with the gas forge.

having used the forge a dozen times the anhydrous borax flux has got into the k wool lining and stuffed it up.

i used a high zircon wash over the wool and the flux ate through it.

how shoud i go about relining the thing .

glad of any help.

Daniel Tasmania. AUSTRALIA.

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I miss led with the pics . the pics were when i built the furnace.

the kao wool lining had a high zircon wash several times. I use the same wash in an other furnace that i use for melting cast iron .That furnace is still going strong after 150 melts.the iron is melted in a cruisible

the failed furnace had a high temp ceramic tile to rest the job on. {the flux ate half of that also]


i guess what i need is a method of stopping to flux getting to the to the kao wool .a blow by blow decription of the proper method of lining the furnace by one who knows would be great.

cant show any photos of the lining as i stripped it out.

if the furnace is lined correctly what sort of life can i expect

thanks for the help .


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Dan, You are stepping into the BIG BLACK hole of specialised forges. Some people I know have a forge for everything, I think making and modifying forges is the main part of the hobby for them and if that makes them happy that's great.

Before you go that way have a search on gas forge plans. Many of them have bricks and inserts for catching flux. Have a look at this page as an example. He puts an easily removed shelf in the bottom.


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I think that two forges might be a good idea. Even with a shelf, if you are forge welding a lot, the flux goes everywhere. There is a mini-tornado in there you know. Especially for forge welding, don't point the burners at the work, come in tangent and heat the lining, you'll be much happier I guarantee it! With the burners pointed at the work it's easier to burn the work and it's harder to see when the part gets to just the right temperature.

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Thanks for the replys.

will enter the black hole.

been to the refactory people this morning.

the new furnace will have a 2000 deg c castable hot wall 100mm with 80 mm insulating castable

arround that, then 50 mm high temp kao wool enclosed in a steel box.

the castable has to be cured in an oven .

will post a pic when finished....

Thanks again for all the replys .

i should add that i can get it built for zero dollars as i do a bit of turning work for the refactory people when needed .


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Flux will destroy most forge lining.

"Plastek 85" is a refractory which will stand up to flux. I use it to line the floor of my forges. It can be purchased online. Call one of the numbers listed below. It is sold in 55 pound boxes as a ramable refractory. I make a wood form and "pack" this stuff into it, then carefully move it into my forge. It's a little pricey, but I assure you it's worth it. It's about $73 plus shipping for 55#. This stuff has a shelf life. It comes as mixed crumbly cakes that will dry out and be worthless if you leave it sit for more than six months, so I would recommend sharing a box (if you only use it for a floor) among several folks. I'm sure it could be used to line an entire forge also. It has very specific instructions for "burning in" the refractory, but I just light the forge, run on low heat for a while, then use for normal forging. This stuff is tons better than using hard brick (heats up faster and retains heat better). If you don't use it all, I recommend making up extra floors, firing them, then putting them aside for future use.

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Thanks for the info.talked to refactory guy about the material you mentioned,he has never heard of the stuff.

this is understandable as TASMANIA is a bit in the backwoods so to speak.

however the fly fishing here is great so i guess you cant have it all .

one thing about the great USA is the availability of things ,i import all my knife making gear from the states .


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