looking for a good metal finish

[billp]

I just tried the mix of bee's wax, linseed oil, and turpentine and may have put to much bee's wax in the mix as I tried to keep it at equal parts of all three. I did apply the mix on hot to the touch metal but I just didn't like the feel after it dried. So I'm not sure if I did it right or not. Still looking for something else to try.

Plus has anyone tried the gun browning or bluing you can get at gun shops to finish your work? I did try the browning as I had a bottle left over when I built a black power rifle from a kit. I used it on a old hammer I picked up at a flea market that was real beat up. After I buffed the hammer head down to get out all the scratches cleaning it up I put the browning on it for grins and giggles. It tend to make the hammer look more like brass and kind of interesting and different from what others have done that I have seen. So now I have used it on some handles I made for a couple of wood tool boxes I built. I really like the look but the question is how will it hold up and could you use it on items that handle food like forks and hot dog sticks?

So if anyone has any input please let me know I'll be interested to hear what you all have to say. I'll be out of town for the weekend but will respond when I get home Sunday or first thing Monday morning.
Thanks
BillP

[Frosty]

Beeswax tends to stay tacky.

One of the guys locally mixes equal parts bees and parafin wax for his finish.

I like applying hard paste wax to hot iron. It's reasonably durable, sets hard as nails and smells okay when you put it on.

What I used first and still do is a mix of parafin, turpentine and soot, applied melted, to hot steel. I got the recipe from the "Art of Blacksmithing" I THINK, maybe, . . . Years ago, much farther back than unimportant details like where'd I hear THAT tend to stick.

Anyway, it's lasted surprisingly well here through long harsh Alaskan winters and in direct sunlight. I have several pieces hanging outdoors for several years now and the only rust is where the ring from the planter rubs on the hanger's hook.

There are the various boiled (I think) linseed oil finishes, some work better than others. Be extremely careful using "japan driers" on food contact products, many "japan driers" contain persistant toxins. Nothing I think you have to worry about touching but certainly thngs you don't want in your food.

There are lots of baked on oil finishes too using a polymerizing oil like "olive" or Linseed oil.

Incralac is used a lot by others than I. Prep is very important.

Clear, semi-gloss and matt finish Krylon works pretty well for a few years depending on prep.

Rustoleum and Hammerite (now owned by Rustoleum I believe) work well for a few years. Prep prep prep.

Powder coating is NOT as durable a finish outdoors as the powder coaters would let you believe. Find out what product the local guy is using and research it yourself.

All finishes will need maintenance, some more often than others. Some finishes aren't really suitable for outdoors and a very few are not suitable for indoors. A cold applied linseed oil finish being an example, it could take months to set hard.

About the only finish that should last a long time, say more than 5 years is galvy plated and painted. you could have it hot dipped but will lose fine detail where electro plating the zinc will preserve it better. Hot dipped is thicker and will last longer though.

I think that's about it from the top O'me pointy.

Frosty

[billp]

Thanks Frosty
I have a copy of "The Art of Blacksmithing" and will give it another going over on how to finish metal. I was curious if anyone out there ever tried the gun bluing or browning treatments of finishing. As I understand it bluing is just a controlled form of rusting to help seal the metal from any more rust build up. Any way thanks for your comments I'll check into what you told me.
Billp

[fat pete]

i find if i use too much wax and the metal wasnt quite hot enuff it gets maybe a little gummy....i just put it back in the heat and put some coal dust on it and rub it... i also notice if i use linseed oil alone it gives a brownish look ....and if i use butchers bowling alley wax some oil and dust i get a really good color and its very durable....the metal needs to be hot to melt the wax but not hot enuf to burn it, but of course... milage will vary

[CurlyGeorge]

I use just burned bees wax on the eating spoons and forks that I make. My wife and I use them in our own camp. Heat the metal to black hot, (just before any red), and rub the wax on. Let it run down and around the peice. It may catch fire. So hold it away from your face. I repeat this until it becomes a dark shiny black. Then when you use them and wash them, just coat with cooking oil. Mine have held the color for several years and have not rusted.....yet.:)

[divermike]

I have had really good results with gilders paste, and a quality shellac, I like to take a hand propane torch, and add heat to the the paste after I have applied it to the metal, it darkens it and gives it a richer color, and a good lacquer finishes it nicely.

[billp]

Thanks for the ideas folks I do appreciate it I give them a try and see which works for me.
Thanks again
Billp